Liesl Gibson

Hi Annie. I think I would probably put in the seam for the best fit, and then end up with a slit opening instead of a keyhole. . But you could try doing the adjustment without a center back seam, and then take out the excess at the neckline with darts.

Hi Bonnie (@bonlou)
This is not really the place to ask as it’s not a pattern from this company.
A quick internet search for your pattern came up with a YouTube video tutorial. I suggest you try that.

Because the pattern is for a smock that is meant to be very loose fitting and worn over clothes, sizing is much more forgiving. We have made this available only in Small, Medium, and Large sizes instead of in numbered sizing. We recommend using size Small for children between 6 months and 3 years. But to confirm the best sizing for your specific…[Read more]

I can’t see the centre back fold marking on your lining piece, so it’s hard to see if that’s been cut too short.
But…. Main point is that raw edges don’t line up, stitching lines do. So, with a half inch seam allowance, those pattern pieces should actually overlap by 1″.
Try that and see how they fit.

Hi Anne, do you have notches or pattern markings present but not lining up?
If the markings are all present then you might have the wrong size, or an error somewhere.
If there’s no markings to line up then I’m guessing you’re trying to attach the facing upside down.

Check your pattern pieces, then check you’ve transferred all the markings…[Read more]

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My reply disappeared…

In that case use the button markings and edge of buttonholes to create a vertical line that you’ll then match your pattern to.

Don’t forget that the buttons sit to the edge of the buttonhole, not the centre.

I’ll try and attach a picture without losing the reply again 🙂

Do you want it to match when it’s buttoned closed?

You need to mark the centre front on each pattern piece as a vertical line. I think there’s a notch at the neck line to indicate where this is from memory.
Then, when you cut, you make sure the centre front lines hit the same part of the plaid pattern, not the edge of the pattern piece.

If you…[Read more]

Hi Debra,
Can you post a photo as that might help spot where the problem is.
Here’s how I troubleshoot this kind of problem:
1: notches missing or not matching at all?
– I’m trying to attach something upside down
2: centre back and shoulder notches good, one front ok, but all the length missing on the other side?
– I’ve mucked up one placket…[Read more]

@lrnbckmn, do you have an old shirt in your rag bag that you can salvage the buttons from?
Or you could try an Op-Shop?
Maybe ask around your friends? Many of the mass produced shirts have those little collar buttons as standard.

@macaronquilts Out of interest I got my 23 year son to try on his sisters. Way too short (I had shortened the leg) but they fit in a low waisted way.
He is not overly tall and an average muscular build.

He, too, liked the pockets and said he would happily wear them.

I hope that helps!

You can always access your past orders by viewing your order history. You’ll find any past download links on the sales receipt pages for your orders.

To do that, go to this page and either log into your account or look up orders by email and zip code.

https://oliverands.com/shop/find-past-orders/

Hi Kate (@matuhart), I’ve just moved house and everything is in boxes, so I don’t have my book on hand. But…

There is a free felt bow pattern here on the Oliver + S website under the Free Patterns tab.

If you want to use your dress fabric, you can still use this pattern. I’ve sewn it in fabric by adding a 1/4″ seam allowance, stitching and…[Read more]

Hi @jlrobinson1220gmail-com Joan,
The best way to work out what size a finished garment will be us to draw the stitching line on your pattern piece.
The crown circumference measurement will be taken at the opposite end to where you’ve marked.
Draw a line 1/2″ in from that longer curved edge. Stop the line 1/2″ from each end
The length of that…[Read more]

P.S. I absolutely bow down before your muslin making dedication to fitting. Chapeaux !

I was just thinking of this pattern the other day and how I should make it as I know I’d wear it all the time.
I really like your muslin as per the pattern and I like your inspiration picture too, but the second muslin with centre front width isn’t hitting as many goals :)….
To me, the key to the slouchy, relaxed vibe of your inspiration picture…[Read more]

Hi Amie @quilterbee
Please don’t ignore that printing discrepancy. While 1/16″ doesn’t seem much, if you have, for example, a 40″ bust measurement, then the difference ends up being 2&2/2″
That’s definitely enough to end up with a completely wrong sized garment.
One thing I’ve sometimes found works is to print my pattern setting the printer to…[Read more]

I’m not sure what exactly might be the problem. You should be able to print with A4 without any problem.

I would suggest enabling the rulers in Adobe Reader to check and confirm that the test square is 1″. (It definitely should be….) Once you’ve confirmed that the file is accurate, you’ll know that it’s something in how your device is…[Read more]

Hi Lyndsey.
I bought my dad some silk pajama s a couple of Christmases ago after finding the pajamas cheaper than the fabric!
I reckon it’s a silk satin that you want. Silk seems to be variously measured in g per sq/m as we’re familiar with, but also in “mommes”.
I found one reference suggesting that “22mommes was ideal for lightwear, summer…[Read more]

@acs19 the charts do look a bit odd, but they are indeed correct. The two size ranges are built from completely separate blocks, and the patterns are quite different as a result. The expanded size range is much more curvy than the straight size range. If you fall into the sizes that overlap, you can choose which you think will best fit your shape.…[Read more]