Oliver + S

Collar stand

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    Debra @DjMe

    The size 10 collar stand does not fit the neckline, I have triple checked the cutting layout and sewing lines, it appears to be about 2″ short. What am I doing incorrectly? I have viewed the sew along and it appears that I am doing construction correclty. Any suggestion? If I draft a new collar stand that mean I would need to draft a new collar.

    Enbee @Enbee

    This seems unlikely, but it’s the only thing I can think of that might account for that much excess: any chance something went wrong with the placket? The set-in placket option has you removing a strip from one of the shirt front pieces – if memory serves it’s a 1″ strip.

    I’ve made the classic shirt in a 10 (with alterations, but not to the neckline), and I don’t remember any difficulty fitting the collar stand to the neckline.

    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hi Debra,
    Can you post a photo as that might help spot where the problem is.
    Here’s how I troubleshoot this kind of problem:
    1: notches missing or not matching at all?
    – I’m trying to attach something upside down
    2: centre back and shoulder notches good, one front ok, but all the length missing on the other side?
    – I’ve mucked up one placket somehow
    3: centre back and shoulder notches good and both sides equally short?
    – I’ve mucked up both plackets somehow
    4: no notches matching very well anywhere?
    – I’ve traced off the wrong size

    If you can work through that kind of list then you can zone in on the error. I’ve made the size 10 classic shirt, and there’s no pattern issue. Collars always require easing into necklines, it’s what makes them stand up, but it should be achievable and the notches align neatly.

    The trimming off of the extra placket width seems to catch a lot of people out, so maybe go back and check that step.

    Good luck

    Debra @DjMe

    Figured out what the problem was, I increased the yoke size in height at the shoulder but did not increase the neckline so thought the collar portion would be ok, it wasn’t. Had to recut the yoke, works fine now. Thank you for your help.

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