skirt as top

I’ve had to do that before. 😉
A little join in your lining won’t matter.

Let me get this right, you’re not planning on the skirt being reversible are you? If yes, the you need to consider leaving the pockets off.
If not, then construct the outer skirt and pockets as per the instructions, then construct your skirt lining. You need to have made the lining pieces so that they don’t have pockets. If you’re unsure of how to…[Read more]

Sure!

What about sewing a little velcro to the piece to hold them together. I think I have an old wrap dress where my mom did this to keep everything in place. (Which for some reason reminds me of the time mom sewed me a sundress that I wore to church and she decided it showed too much from the side and made me wear a shirt under it from then on……[Read more]

I’d recommend that you look at the finished measurements for this style. You’ll want to choose your size based mostly on the chest, but check that the waist is more or less in line with what you need. The skirt is flared so the hip doesn’t matter. In terms of where the waist hits, definitely hold the pattern up to her to check whether you like the…[Read more]

Ooh, you’re thinking like me right now! About to do something similar with one of our upcoming fall patterns as a tutorial!

I think it would be worth a try to spread it by 1 1/2, but I would definitely suggest making a muslin since the dart may become quite large, you may want to adjust it, etc. I hope it works out!

Hi Victoria, have you seen the errata note for this pattern?
If you go the pattern in the shop then you’ll see the tabs for details, photos, reviews etc There’s a tab for errata.
I’ve seen this shirt a few times and found it works fine, but when the pattern first came out there were a number of people who experienced difficulty fitting the collar…[Read more]

There is a complete sew-along for this pattern, including detailed photos, right here:

cartwheel wrap dress sew-along

Well, it appears that the error correction contained an error! So sorry about that. The correct length measurements for the bodysuit are as follows:

• 0-3 M: 14″
• 3-6 M: 15 1/2″
• 6-12 M: 17″
• 12-18 M: 18 1/2″
• 18-24 M: 20″

The previously issued errata for this has been updated.

Thanks Heidi, I knew it was there somewhere but was too busy to hit the search.
Cybele, I think those sleeves need a flounce not a ruffle in order to get the fluttery effect you’re after.

So,…. You’re planning on keeping the dropped shoulder sleeve head the same, just changing the attached sleeve portion, is that right?
I wonder if it might be better to keep it single layer and have a narrow or rolled hem on the end of the sleeve. A double layer might be too heavy to “flutter” – flappy and saggy are not really what you want…[Read more]

You certainly can fit a hood into the Forest Path Cape. I’ve added a collar, and I know someone’s added a full hood to the Woodland Stroll Cape (the grown up version).
But….. What you really need is the Red Riding Hood Cape from the book Little Things to Sew. It has a hood, single front button closure, lovely little hand slits and really nice…[Read more]

Sounds like a job for your local service center! I know nothing about machines or sergers and can’t offer any help or suggestions, but I do know that it’s enormously beneficial to have someone knowledgeable who can service your machines. It’s a good idea to have them tuned up and serviced every year at the minimum and worth every penny in…[Read more]

Yes, you are right! There is an error in the length measurement. We’re so sorry about that. We’ll issue an errata and update the pattern shortly. But in the meantime, the correct length measurements for the bodysuit should be:

• 0-3 M: 15.75″
• 3-6 M: 17.75″
• 6-12M: 18.75″
• 12-18M: 20″
• 18-24M: 21.5″

Hi @ischyrus Steven. I wonder if it would be as simple as sewing the collar stand without the collar.
That may give more of a Mandarin collar look rather than the image you’ve shown.
That image has the collar band lying very flat and almost looks like the neckline is finished with a bias.
If you use scraps (just cut a neckline and shoulders) you…[Read more]

So it sounds like the pocket edge either stretched a bit during construction or pocket is slightly smaller than the front skirt. You could try ripping out the side seam at the spot where the pocket meets the side seam and below and pull the front skirt a bit tighter before re-sewing it. In other words, leave the panel above the pocket as is but…[Read more]

Short answer, yes. Long answer: I seem to recall another thread where this was discussed at length.
I’ve only made one hide and seek with the notch but it was a linen type weave and on the very first washing it all frayed around that notch. Maybe I’d clipped too close, but that was certainly a fabric where interfacing both sides of the yoke would…[Read more]

I find they flatten out just fine. Much better in fact than a baking paper tracing, or the printer paper if you’re using a PDF pattern. – one of the reasons I even trace home printed PDF patterns.
Just whatever you do, do not (NOT!) try and iron the trace and Toile!! 🙂