Nicole

Hi Nicole. Is it your intention not to line the jacket?
If you’re using your quilted fabric on its own AND want the jacket to be reversible then yes, it would be super neat to unpick some of the quilting and make a two internal facing darts.
Otherwise I’d just make the dart as directed, press it towards the back and even stitch it down with an…[Read more]

Hi Becca,
I remember that happening to a dress (or two) of mine. Perhaps it was the Croquet dress?…. And I recall a thread on this forum about how to prevent it.
I’ve since tended to use a little square of lightweight fusible interfacing on both the main fabric and the facing when I do one of those keyhole slit openings.
A nice, decorative…[Read more]

Hi Brenda, It’s difficult to give advice without being able to see the skirt on you, but one big advantage of this style is that you can adjust the seams, as you mentioned. If you feel that you need more or less room in a certain area, simply move your pins to “let in” or “let out”. Once you’ve gotten a fit you like, those changes can be…[Read more]

I think your best bet would to do a mock layout with the pattern pieces since I’m sure they would use less fabric when combined than with three separate fabrics.

Nothing is missing in the file. You just need to find all the pieces with the same letter-number combinations.

For piece 1, for example, there are four pieces with the letter-number combination 1A. These are spread across three pages: page 15, page 16 (which also includes a section of piece 8D at the bottom–trim the page between those two pieces…[Read more]

For this pattern, you will be assembling the individual pattern pieces, not a giant pattern sheet. You can find instructions for how to tile the pieces together on page 15 of the PDF file. In short, you will trim the edges (the area outside the grid lines) from the pages. Then look for the letter-number combinations in the black circles in the…[Read more]

Great! I hope you share it when you’re done!

Hi Annie. I think I would probably put in the seam for the best fit, and then end up with a slit opening instead of a keyhole. . But you could try doing the adjustment without a center back seam, and then take out the excess at the neckline with darts.

Hi Bonnie (@bonlou)
This is not really the place to ask as it’s not a pattern from this company.
A quick internet search for your pattern came up with a YouTube video tutorial. I suggest you try that.

Sorry about that–the waist is the narrowest part. It gets wider for the hips…

Because the pattern is for a smock that is meant to be very loose fitting and worn over clothes, sizing is much more forgiving. We have made this available only in Small, Medium, and Large sizes instead of in numbered sizing. We recommend using size Small for children between 6 months and 3 years. But to confirm the best sizing for your specific…[Read more]

I can’t see the centre back fold marking on your lining piece, so it’s hard to see if that’s been cut too short.
But…. Main point is that raw edges don’t line up, stitching lines do. So, with a half inch seam allowance, those pattern pieces should actually overlap by 1″.
Try that and see how they fit.

Hi Anne, do you have notches or pattern markings present but not lining up?
If the markings are all present then you might have the wrong size, or an error somewhere.
If there’s no markings to line up then I’m guessing you’re trying to attach the facing upside down.

Check your pattern pieces, then check you’ve transferred all the markings…[Read more]

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My reply disappeared…

In that case use the button markings and edge of buttonholes to create a vertical line that you’ll then match your pattern to.

Don’t forget that the buttons sit to the edge of the buttonhole, not the centre.

I’ll try and attach a picture without losing the reply again 🙂

Do you want it to match when it’s buttoned closed?

You need to mark the centre front on each pattern piece as a vertical line. I think there’s a notch at the neck line to indicate where this is from memory.
Then, when you cut, you make sure the centre front lines hit the same part of the plaid pattern, not the edge of the pattern piece.

If you…[Read more]

Hi Debra,
Can you post a photo as that might help spot where the problem is.
Here’s how I troubleshoot this kind of problem:
1: notches missing or not matching at all?
– I’m trying to attach something upside down
2: centre back and shoulder notches good, one front ok, but all the length missing on the other side?
– I’ve mucked up one placket…[Read more]

Ok, from the look of these photos the armhole seems to be quite small for you, and I think that’s why it’s pulling. Can you drop it a bit or trace a larger size for the arm? I think it wouldn’t hurt to go up a size overall if that’s easier, too. You don’t want this style to be too fitted.

Hello, and good for you, sticking to it! Your muslin is looking very good. Do those drag lines go away if you move them over your bust? From the photo it looks like you raised your arms and the extra fullness got “caught” above your bra, so I’m wondering if it’s just that the fabric is sticky. To a certain degree there will be drag lines due to…[Read more]

You can always access your past orders by viewing your order history. You’ll find any past download links on the sales receipt pages for your orders.

To do that, go to this page and either log into your account or look up orders by email and zip code.

https://oliverands.com/shop/find-past-orders/