Oliver + S

Fitting the Cappuccino Dress

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    Becca @macaronquilts

    Hi!
    So, the Cappuccino pattern is the first pattern I bought from Oliver and S/ Liesl and Co, and I have yet to actually make it! I’ve tried a few times over the years; I made a couple muslins shortly after I bought it; the first, I made one out of some leftover cheap rayon and overestimated my abilities to follow directions like those for the neckband and it was terrible, which is okay. The second I was able to sew correctly, but I wasn’t thrilled with the fit. I made a 12 and the neckband was too gapey for my taste, and most of my measurements put me in the 10 range anyway. So I tried a 10 and the neckband fit well but it was too tight across my bust (I’m a D cup). So I let other projects get in the way…
    BUT I have been determined to make one, so I pulled out my pattern a couple months ago and attempted an FBA on a size 10. I was surprised that it fixed the spreading of the gathers across my bust, but it still pulled directly next to where the gathers meet the neckband, so instead of attempting to figure out how to add more, I decided to make another muslin, and use the 12 pattern pieces and the 10 neckband. I cut the back piece on the fold, and added a pleat at center back so that the neckband would fit the dress. I was so pleased that it fixed a lot of the issues I’ve had: the neckband fits great, and the gathers don’t pull across my bust. Victory! But, I noticed there are still these drag lines (see attached picture), so here’s the questions I’ve been getting to. I’m assuming they’re due to the kimono-style sleeve, maybe? Is there a fix, or are they not as noticeable as I think they are? Is it a fit issue, or the way the pattern is meant to fit, and will be less noticeable in a fabric with more drape than cheap muslin? I’m sure I’m over scrutinizing, but that’s what muslins are for, right? Thanks for any thoughts and opinions!

    Attachments:
    LINK
    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Hello, and good for you, sticking to it! Your muslin is looking very good. Do those drag lines go away if you move them over your bust? From the photo it looks like you raised your arms and the extra fullness got “caught” above your bra, so I’m wondering if it’s just that the fabric is sticky. To a certain degree there will be drag lines due to the sleeve, but it could also possibly benefit from the addition of a bust dart if you’re willing to go that way. I hope that helps?

    LINK
    Becca @macaronquilts

    Thanks for weighing in, Liesl! I’ll attach the other two photos I took, it feels like they just move, and are kind of where an armscye (spelling??) might be, or where a sleeve would attach for a raglan, which made me wonder if it was just how the kimono-style sleeves worked. It seems like it’s well fitted, I didn’t try to do jumping jacks or anything, but I don’t think it felt tight or like it was pulling anywhere. And I really wondered if it was just the nature of the sleeve in the stiffer muslin. I’m planning to make it in a mariner cloth by Alison Glass which is a bit rustic, but has enough texture it might not be super visible, and I’ve also thought about doing it in a rayon, which would have plenty of drape.

    LINK
    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Ok, from the look of these photos the armhole seems to be quite small for you, and I think that’s why it’s pulling. Can you drop it a bit or trace a larger size for the arm? I think it wouldn’t hurt to go up a size overall if that’s easier, too. You don’t want this style to be too fitted.

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