Lightning McStitch

Even when you’ve got everything right, seeing hats can be tricky.
I find it helps to mark, or stitch, along the 1/2″ seam lines and make sure I’m pinning at the seam line, not trying to match up raw edges.
It also helps to pin the four quarter marks (front, back and each side) and then ease the fabric inbetween to fit.
You may also need to clip…[Read more]

Lining up the raw edges flat like that doesn’t represent what happens when you stitch. What you need to look at is the stitching lines.
With a 1/2″ seam allowance you should overlap those pattern pieces so there’s 1″ of double pattern.
Does that make the edges meet properly?
It’s a slightly curved seam, so there’ll be a little bit of angle change…[Read more]

It would be a challenge, sure. But that doesn’t mean it’s not worth a go!
Options to make it easier for yourself might include cutting the waist/belt section on the bias (windowpane check) or cross grain (stripe)
That gives you a bit of a visual break between the bodice and the skirt so your pattern matching across those sections doesn’t have to…[Read more]

I think “over the top” and “as it pleases them” and “with pockets” are really the only rules when it comes to sewing for two year Olds.
So, by those benchmarks your dress is a winner!

It’s possible, sure. But you won’t like it as much 😉
The back waistband with the two channels of thinner elastic has a much nicer feel with softer gathers and just wears SO much better than with one wide elastic.
Wider elastic will either be really stiff, or will be prone to folding.

As I’m typing this, I’m wearing an Everyday Skirt that I…[Read more]

Hi Cindy, the seam allowance is there on Page 2 of the Instructions: General Instructions, point 4: “Seam allowances are included in the pattern and are 1/2″ unless otherwise noted”.

All of the Oliver + S an dLiesl+ Co patterns tend to work with 1/2″ seam allowances, the main exception being knit garments which may have a 1/4″ seam allowance.…[Read more]

Hmmmm…. I’ve made both the M and the L of the All Day Shirt and found the collar matched the neckline with notches aligning and only a ” regular” amount of easing to fit.
Is there any chance you did the same as the OP and cut the shirt on the placket line not the front cutting line? Your collar looks fine, so us the shirt too small?

Hi Nancy, the African Wax Prints that I’ve sewn with have been Vlisco which is 100% cotton base. I’ve thought of them as having the weight and thickness of a quilting cotton but the weave and quality of a Liberty lawn! Perfect party Frock fabric.
I would think that a quilting cotton collar would work fine and I doubt it will matter which fabric…[Read more]

Do you have the Jump Rope Dress pattern? That shows the easy way to do a cuff where the sleeve has parallel sides.
Essentially a cuff is just a really deep single fold hem and then the folded edge is turned up again.
I would straighten out the sides of the sleeve to make them closer to parallel, then add a deep hem allowance with the slight angle…[Read more]

Hi Natalie, sorry for the late reply, I’ve been trying to find a moment to pull out my pattern.
I have the paper printed pattern and you’re absolutely right, the pocket pattern pieces for both views A&B are 1/8th of an inch longer on one side. (Size doesn’t matter for the pocket pattern pieces)
I certainly didn’t notice that when I sewed the…[Read more]

You certainly could Sandy. You might find you don’t need to adjust it much as I think from memory I can get mine on/off without undoing it. If you mark the centre front pattern piece half an inch or so lower then draw in a new curve meeting back at the same shoulder point. Just remember to lengthen your bias finishing tape as well

Hi @clairemichel , this is a nice,easy one to add length to.
You’ll see that in view A both the bodice and the skirt have straight sides so you can simply add length at the bottom of each pattern piece.
I have a long torso’ed daughter and find it’s easier to guesstimate how much extra length she needs and add that. If you try and lengthen to the…[Read more]

In step 2 the “cut placket piece” is not the 1″ strip you’ve just removed, but a separate pattern piece that you’ve cut from your fabric. Main, or possibly, a contrast fabric.
That should set you back on track.
Enjoy the sewing.

@dorilloyd if I’m lining something then odds are it’s a special occasion dress that will need some ironing anyway. So ironing the lining is not a deal breaker. I have made many Fairy Tale dresses with cotton voile/Batiste lining and the bodice can all be ironed as one and just the lining and main skirts ironed separately. It’s not that much extra…[Read more]

You could definitely do that. Do you have the Gallery Dress pattern? I imagine it working much like that. Cut the back with extra at the centre back fold line, then create a box pleat with a rectangle about 1&1/2″ deep at the neck line.

Full of trial and error and past failures, 🙂 but your compliment is gratefully received.
Shelley

When a pattern is drafted to be sleeveless, the shoulder will be narrowerer and the armhole more inward, so just attaching a sleeve won’t work so well.

But, it’s easy. Trace the Birthday party dress in the size you want then lay the bodice tracings over another pattern and redraw the shoulder/armhole area. Now you have the “pattern X” armhole in…[Read more]

Next week four patterns arrive
I think I’ll be buying all five
But oops, I bought six

Next week four patterns arrive
I think I’ll be buying all five

🙂

I wish I was living in Spain
Where the rain stays mainly on the plain
But I’m here in Nantucket