[Cindy Swoveland]

Hi – I am a quilter normally but, in the distant past, I was a garment maker. I even took a tailoring class once and made a suit. But that was long ago and far away. I have a lovely length of wool that I found in my fabric stash and I bought the Woodland Stroll Cape for that fabric. I am awaiting delivery of some Liberty Tana Lawn for the lining and also some leather buckle closures instead of buttons. Now, I have questions: First, interfacing: I have a lot of unbleached muslin. Can I use that instead of lightweight iron on interfacing (which I recall very unfondly!). I am familiar with how to attach non-iron on interfacing. Just need to know what to use for it. Second, thread for garment sewing? I use Aurifil 50 wt cotton for quilting. Is that ok? Or should I get something else? Third and I think last is sewing on the leather closure tabs to the wool. Any special thing to do here? Any special thread? I know that is a lot of questions but it has been since the 1980’s that I made a garment!!!

[Liesl Gibson]

Hello, and a few quick answers to your questions: you can probably use unbleached muslin if you pre-wash it, and I would likely toss it in the dryer to be sure it’s completely shrunk. They press it well before use. My experience with Aurifil is limited but I would suggest an all-purpose thread for apparel stitching. It’s best when the thread has some poly for strength. And I’m not sure what sort of leather closures, but again all-purpose thread or even denim thread if you want a heavier topstitching. If the holes are pre-drilled you might want to hand-stitch to line up your stitching to the holes? Have fun!

[Cindy Swoveland]

Thank you. I will certainly prewash the muslin before use! I believe the leather closures I got do have pre-drilled holes and I think hand stitching would look nice, as I could use a heavier thread. This is all a new adventure for me – out of my comfort zone of making and quilting quilts!

[Marion]

Hi,
I’ve done something silly. I have a pretty fabric that’s hard to tell the wrong and right side of. And yes, I’ve cut it out on the wrong side! Ekkkk!!!! Can I still use it?

[Liesl Gibson]

Can’t you just flip it and use the right side? Everything is symmetrical, so just mark the wrong side so you keep it all straight.

[Marion]

Hummm…I thought I might but it’s and “odd “ dress a Marcy Tildon pattern that has unusual pieces all over the place. Would it still be ok to “flip” it? Thanks For answering my questions and not making me feel silly.

• This reply was modified 4 years ago by Marion.

[Liesl Gibson]

My understanding was that you’re sewing the Woodland Stroll Cape?

[Cindy Swoveland]

Follow up question…I have read through the instructions and don’t see anything about the seam allowance. In the old days when I was making garments, the seam allowance was 5/8″. Is that the seam allowance that is supposed to be used on this garment? I am so used to using 1/4″ seams for quilts! I don’t want to screw up!!!

[Lightning McStitch]

Hi Cindy, the seam allowance is there on Page 2 of the Instructions: General Instructions, point 4: “Seam allowances are included in the pattern and are 1/2″ unless otherwise noted”.

All of the Oliver + S an dLiesl+ Co patterns tend to work with 1/2″ seam allowances, the main exception being knit garments which may have a 1/4″ seam allowance. You’ve remembered correctly that the big commercial patterns tend to be 5/8″ seam allowance.

Enjoy sewing the cape!

[Cindy Swoveland]

Oh…thank you. 1/2″ seems quite sensible!

[Cindy Swoveland]

I have finally finished it! It looks great and was reasonably easy too! Though I must confess that I’d much rather be quilting!!!Thanks to those Liesl for a great pattern

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[Liesl Gibson]

It looks great on you! Well done.