juliamom2009

You certainly could Sandy. You might find you don’t need to adjust it much as I think from memory I can get mine on/off without undoing it. If you mark the centre front pattern piece half an inch or so lower then draw in a new curve meeting back at the same shoulder point. Just remember to lengthen your bias finishing tape as well

Hi Kaitlin. Sorry I’m not following you. Maybe you can post a photo so we can see what you mean?

Hi @clairemichel , this is a nice,easy one to add length to.
You’ll see that in view A both the bodice and the skirt have straight sides so you can simply add length at the bottom of each pattern piece.
I have a long torso’ed daughter and find it’s easier to guesstimate how much extra length she needs and add that. If you try and lengthen to the…[Read more]

In step 2 the “cut placket piece” is not the 1″ strip you’ve just removed, but a separate pattern piece that you’ve cut from your fabric. Main, or possibly, a contrast fabric.
That should set you back on track.
Enjoy the sewing.

My preferred lightweight lining is cotton voile or lawn, and I line dry almost everything I sew. Before hanging it up the dry give it a good, sharp snap and it won’t need a lot of ironing after it’s dry.

The seam allowances are already included in the pattern pieces. As explained in the book, for many of the alterations you’ll need to draw in the stitching lines, which are 1/2″ inside the cutting lines.

@dorilloyd if I’m lining something then odds are it’s a special occasion dress that will need some ironing anyway. So ironing the lining is not a deal breaker. I have made many Fairy Tale dresses with cotton voile/Batiste lining and the bodice can all be ironed as one and just the lining and main skirts ironed separately. It’s not that much extra…[Read more]

P.S. If you’re not already part of our Liesl + Co Friends Facebook group you’ll fine lots of good advice from other people who have sewn our patterns there. They can speak from their own experiences to help you!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/friendsoflieslandco/

Oof, so many questions! So it sounds like you don’t need your first set of questions answered since you’ve already decided on a size. To answer your question about length, be sure to compare front and back from the bottom of the armhole since the yoke wraps around to the front by a bit. If you’ve shortened front and back by the same amount you…[Read more]

I just use my ordinary straight stitch foot for those seams. I just checked the post, and I think you’re referring to the edgestitching foot? I mentioned in the post that you can use it if you have trouble with straight stitching. With a little practice you really don’t need it, but it can be handy.

Yes, the two shirt collars are interchangeable, so that will work just fine! Can’t wait to see how yours turns out!

You could definitely do that. Do you have the Gallery Dress pattern? I imagine it working much like that. Cut the back with extra at the centre back fold line, then create a box pleat with a rectangle about 1&1/2″ deep at the neck line.

Have you checked our sew-along to see if the photos help?

hollywood trousers sew-along

It sounds to me like your machine tension might not be even or the fabric is somehow getting pulled tight as you sew it. If the outer fabric is getting pulled, or if it’s being push along with the presser foot as you sew, that would result in a curling edge. Maybe try reducing the amount of pressure your presser foot is putting on your fabric (if…[Read more]

Hmmm. Are you measuring along the seam line? I’m measuring the armhole vs the binding in the software and all the sizes are exactly the same length as the bias, so I’m not sure why you’re having this problem.

Can you check your pattern pieces again? I’m lining them up perfectly (see attached image), so I’m not understanding how you’re having this problem.

I have one that I’ll post as soon as I find time. I usually sew a 6 or 8 and went up to a 12 for oversized, and it went really well! Promise to post soon.