thejennigirl

From looking at diagrams for high/round/full bottom adjustment, I think it’s best described as an FBA for the backside.
It’s the same slash, pivot and spread as an FBA but applied to the middle(ish) part of the centre back seam.
Does that make sense?

Looking at the instructions and pictures again, and checking the true 1″ wide facing strip, I can only conclude there’s an error…
@liesl ? It works perfectly with the instructions and illustrations if the strip were even 1/4″ wider…
Currently you sew 1/2″ inch, fold over 1/4″ and that only leaves 1/4″ to cover the seam allowances. Yet the…[Read more]

To save modifying my comment again I’ll leave the error there for posterity 🙂
I was adding up to a strip of some width other than 1″ (1&1/2″ would be the sum of 1/2″+3/4″+1/4″)
Anyway, the short answer is: trim those seam allowances aggressively and maybe fold your raw edge over by slightly less than 1/4″
Apologies for the brain fade.

For your first question about adjusting the skirt: if you took the bodice in at the side seams I would do the same with the skirt. Simply because it makes the maths simpler.

The cuff question: you’re on the right track with your stitching but you’re imagining the next step differently to where the pattern is taking you. 🙂
The raw, unstitched…[Read more]

Hi Denise, I think you have misread the instructions but have the right idea.
You construct one set of front, side and back panels out of fabric A, then the same out of fabric B (lining). Then the hood. Then sandwich it all together and stitch the periphery before turning it through an armhole.
Which step is it that you’re reading?

Hi Kathy, there’s a tutorial that shows how to make any bodice sleeveless here: https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2014/04/customizing-the-layette-sleeveless-bodysuit-tutorial.html
Do you have the Building Block Dress Book? Changes like this are also well described in there.
I think the shirts will look great without sleeves. Have fun!

It’s just a matter of adding length to the collar as you add length to the neckline. Adjust your neckline (lowering, widening etc) then measure the new neckline at the stitching line. Compare that to the original and add the same length to the collar. They’re curved lines so you end up freehand drawing it.
The good thing is that collars are only…[Read more]

Hi Becca, if you lower or scoop out the neckline then you would need to make adjustments to the length of the collar do that it still fits.
I wonder if perhaps what your daughter needs is a Forward Shoulder Adjustment (FSA). This moves the shoulder seam forward and helps prevent the front neckline from falling backwards and feeling like it’s…[Read more]

Hi Susan,
If you ever want to find something relating to a particular pattern then the easiest way is to go via the “shop”. Click on the pattern you’re interested in, and you’ll find tabs that will take you to forum discussions, blog posts, or sewn up examples of that pattern.
Here’s the sew along which I found via the blog posts tab in the Extra…[Read more]

Hi Tricia, yes the waistband is just one long piece (pattern piece 6).
The only other pattern pieces are the skirt, and the front and back plackets.
Maybe sleep on it and just follow the instructions in the morning. I always find Oliver + S patterns work perfectly if you don’t overthink them, and just do as Liesl says! 🙁

Hi Phyllis, here’s a lining tutorial that is perfectly adaptable for the Extra Sharp Pencil Skirt:

how to line shorts–or any pair of pants

Those bags look like fun, and a great way to use up scraps – assuming your scraps are better co-ordinate do than mine!
Fun to see an old thread bumped up, thanks.
You’ve inspired me to put the waistband on my Hollywood Trousers and finish them off.

I think it would be quite easy. When you sew the trouser front to the pocket bag you’d simply sew it at an angle – a bit like the Art Museum trousers.
Then you just need to ensure that the pocket stay (which would then form the side seam above the bottom of the pocket opening) is wide enough that none of the pocket facing shows.

I’ve cycled wearing mine – only a short distance (school commute) mind you and mine is a stretch pleather, but it was fine to ride in.

I suspect it must have something to do with the button plackets and how they fold back. Can you post a picture?

Thank goodness you spotted that as it looks like you would have been missing quite a bit of width too, and had a very tight crotch seam! (Eek). Hope you can piece the fabric and make it work.

Oh Heidi, how frustrating, and how very odd….
I don’t have the digital pattern but have just got my paper pattern out to check:
the length of the inseam on the pattern piece from the crotch edge to the hem edge is 18cm / 7&1/8″ on both the front and back shorts and this is true for all sizes.
So, it’s not the case that you’ve accidentally traced…[Read more]

I’ve had to do that before. 😉
A little join in your lining won’t matter.

Let me get this right, you’re not planning on the skirt being reversible are you? If yes, the you need to consider leaving the pockets off.
If not, then construct the outer skirt and pockets as per the instructions, then construct your skirt lining. You need to have made the lining pieces so that they don’t have pockets. If you’re unsure of how to…[Read more]

Hi Victoria, have you seen the errata note for this pattern?
If you go the pattern in the shop then you’ll see the tabs for details, photos, reviews etc There’s a tab for errata.
I’ve seen this shirt a few times and found it works fine, but when the pattern first came out there were a number of people who experienced difficulty fitting the collar…[Read more]