thejennigirl

Just chiming in to say that fabric stencilling is addictive! 😀 I taught myself how so I could do some costumes and for a while I imagined everything stenciled.

That’s fantastic! Perfectly Totoro for those of us in the know, but not at all costume-y.
Now you can stencil paint ALL THE THINGS! 😂

What is the fabric going to be? If it’s a cotton then I would suggest a freezer paper stencil and some fabric paint.
There are lots of online tutorials for freezer paper stencilling, or, if you have the Sandbox pattern it’s there too.
Have fun (we love Studio Ghibli films too)

It should work just fine. Things to think of: the neckline facing may show through too much with a thin knit. You could consider a full bodice lining layer if your fabric is really thin. Or maybe bind the neckline rather than use the facing.
As it is, it should look fine so long as you use a lightweight interfacing on the facing. You don’t want…[Read more]

Just going to work through your maths out loud…
Panel is 2 &3/4″ remove 1/4″ seam allowance from each side > remove 1/2″ = 2&1/4″.
Halve that: = 1&1/8″

Now, each side had a seam allowance with the panel, but that will stay to be the seam allowance for the side seam.

So, maths correct. The side seam will end up being in the middle of where the…[Read more]

What country are you in Melanie @mpiltingsrud ? People local to you may be able to help with more affordable full size printing. Also, even if you can’t print the A4 pattern at home, maybe that would be a cheaper option at a print shop.
Good luck.

By the time you baste the elastic then stitch the binding twice you’ll have no control as to whether you pierce the elastic or not.
I have no recollection of any problems with breakage or pulling loose, and tge coat was fine to be handed down once outgrown.
Use a short stitch length to attach them initially, then do the binding part as normal.
Good luck.

You could bind the shoulder seams, or I’ve shown here how I undid a bit of the quilting to tuck the edge under.
http://bartacksandsingletrack.blogspot.com.au/2013/07/a-pattern-to-make-product-to-be-proud-of.html

Rather than wearing it back to front, I’d move the closure to the front.
The front neckline will be a bit lower than the back, and in some patterns the armhole I shaped differently.
Add the placket allowances to the front bodice and remove them from the back. Cut two of the front bodice and cut the back bodice on the fold.
Hope that helps.

Hi @joslyn sorry for the delay in any reply.
Do you mean adding a gathered ruffle of organza to the lining, which will then show below the skirt hem?
Here’s how I would do that:
Calculate depth of ruffle – work out how much you want to see below the dress. Add 1/2 to 3/4 for a narrow or rolled hem.
Then add another 2 inches so that you can attach…[Read more]

@rleibman I love everything about this question!!!
If I’m right, you’re a bloke, making a quilted Star Trek jumpsuit?! Damn, that’s a high five right there!
The tutorial is great. I’ve never read a sewing tutorial written for men and the walking foot hamburger analogy is fantastic!
Anyway, to answer your question… Yes, they intend for you to use…[Read more]

Bump

It’s not an option written into the pattern as it requires redrafting the front panels.
You can either make it a single, non overlapping closure with a zipper, or insert a zipper into the underlying facing and keep the buttons over the top.
Deb describes and shows the second option very well on her blog. Link :…[Read more]

I suspect that those sort of wrinkles indicate too much ‘length’ in that area but that would be flat pattern adjustment and it’s too late for that now. And I could be totally wrong 😃
If you put them on inside out and pinch then pin out the excess fabric into the side seam you should be able to get a good fit. Just be careful to keep your pocket…[Read more]

Wash-away stabilizer can help especially because the pieces are small. A quilting needle and short stitch length will make better seams, unless you want to construct the fleece and cotton separately then join them just by the bias trim.The jacket is designed for non-stretch fabric so it is generous enough — the raglan helps with this as…[Read more]

Answered in the other thread you’d posted in.
Glad you found this one though, as the tips re cords are worth noting.

@peggyw all I can suggest is this: Measure the bare chest of the intended kid, then measure again with all the expected underlayers.
Remember, the jacket is sized to have the quilted vest underneath.
If you’d kid will wear a singlet, top, sweater or two, quilted vest and jacket thdn you’ll probably need all that ease.
If you’re making this as a…[Read more]

Fabulous! I love those St James knits and it’s so good you can buy them by the metre.

Yay for bigger sizing, the Sketchbook shirt is my go-to for uniforms! Very happy with the results from the Art Museum trouser for my 12 year old who is starting to be true to size, and plan to just upsize on length (more important in rise than leg) as long as I can get away with it… 😀