katybellabug

Are you on the Facebook group? I just saw that someone was planning to sell their patterns. Try there, or if you don’t do FB then I can prompt the seller to look here.
What country are you in? I know a few websites that have older paper stock….

Once the facing is attached to the lining then that whole piece is the lining going forward.
It’s ages since I made it, but there’s no tricks, it will make sense once you’re doing it.

Thanks everyone! I have the Fit for Real People book, so I will head to the square shoulder adjustment section and see what I can figure out. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

If you’re planning to use it for labels then you could look at Etsy stores who will print onto cotton twill tape. Then you could have your own custom labels.
I find eBay, Etsy and Amazon to all be good online sources for notions like this.
Sewing shops will often stock it but may not bother putting it in their online catalogue, so you never know…[Read more]

Louise I’d be very surprised if you needed to. Assuming your upper body (bust, shoulders) fit in a size then the garment is so drapey and loose you probably wouldn’t need any more down below.
One other way you could add some extra swinging width would be to cut the centre back a little in from the fold and make the pleat deeper. The stitched,…[Read more]

Here’s a picture showing how I might try a few little flat pattern changes to deal with that fabric “puddling” above the bust point.
Edit: image too big. Maybe this link will work… https://www.instagram.com/p/_58g8LHsSu/

Here’s a picture showing how I might try a few little flat pattern changes to deal with that fabric “puddling” above the bust point.

Try this. Pinch out about a 1cm vertical dart in the middle of the shoulder and see if that gets rid of the drag lines.
I often do this to flat patterns before cutting. I tend to leave the back shoulder the same and just ease the slightly maladjusted lengths together. For the nape of neck bunching you would do a horizontal pinch, almost like a…[Read more]

Are you meaning the crotch seam? I really like to do pyjamas with a flat felled crotch seam. It’s neat and strong (for some reason my kids always turn into karate fighters or pro wrestlers at bedtime).
If you’ve already seen the seam, then be sure to double stitch it between the notches for extra strength. Clip as needed and press to one side then…[Read more]

Sorry for the silence Peggy. I don’t have much up front, nor have I made the Capuccino dress but hopefully someone else will chime in with their thoughts soon….

I’ve run out of room for my stash
So off to Ikea I dash
The place is a maze
I’ve been here for days

Do you mean prior to washing the yardage of fabric, or finishing seams after seeing them?
At the risk of sounding heretical, I don’t do anything to the edges of new fabric before prewashing. Sure, I sometimes get a mild tangle but I only ever lose a few threads width which is less than you’d lose if you pinked the edges.

I think you’re right that you need something at the back. It would look quite odd if a sash came forward from the side seams but the back was bare. Somehow it works the opposite way 😉
If you use a cotton and have a full sash it will be heavy and I’d worry it will sag at the front – unless you tie it quite tight!
You certainly could put the back…[Read more]

No, no additional seam allowance, just marking so you can make your fox.

I have made it more times without a sleeve than with, ha! It’s a favorite for summer around here. Anyway, I just leave the sleeve off and line the bodice. Like Liesl said, the kimono sleeve makes it look short sleeved. In this post I talk about how to line the bodice: https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2015/06/fox-playtime-dress.html

I’m not sure myself, but I think @georgeandizzy has done this. I remember seeing some very cute versions.

I think it would be gorgeous in double gauze. I made the top in a really light weight lawn, and that was lovely. I’ve also made the dress using something horrible and slippy topped with a flimsy nylon with jewels on it (not my fabric choices!!). For this a sewed the slippy fabric and the top fabric together as one. If your double gauze was…[Read more]

Hi Julie @juviboston

If this young lady measures just 22 1/2″ around the chest, I would be inclined to make a size 4 and use the length of an 8 if she is within the height measurements specified for this size. It would make it far too big to make a size 6 as the amount of ease is 2 inches and it is ample.

I would measure her height to find out…[Read more]