Oliver + S

FBA instructions: what am I missing?

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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    mlinton @mlinton

    I noticed the finished measurements on this pattern indicate there’s 1″ ease in the chest. I measure 33.5″ in the upper bust (size 2), 37.5″ in the full bust. The fba instructions have you spread the pattern 3/4″, (1 1/2″ total), making the finished chest measure 36″-so 1 1/2″ short of fitting me. Should I just spread it 2″ instead of 3/4″?

    Just wondering if anyone’s noticed this, and if it’s an oversight on my part or maybe a typo?

    Thanks ladies!

    Michelle

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    Nicole @motherof5

    Just spread it a wee bit further.

    I wear a D cup so I adjusted mine as far as I could (making sure to add to the centre panel the extra length)

    I was pretty amazed at how far it did widen. I used Swedish tracing paper so That I could glue offcuts under the slash.

    It worked really well.

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    with love Heidi @with love Heidi

    This is the resource I usually use. Paragraph #5 has how much to add for each cup size.

    http://sew-la-fabric.blogspot.com.au/2010/04/full-bust-adjustment-aka-fba.html

    Also check out this narrow shoulder adjustment. If your measurements are otherwise correct, it full bust, waist and hips. It may be easier to narrow the shoulders than increase the bust and then have to also work out the fit for the waist and hips. I haven’t used this method but I would like to try it.

    http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,10216.0.html/

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    meleliza @meleliza

    I was about to say that I followed the FBA instructions faithfully – though they are not the typical ones – and had very good results. But then I noticed there’s more ease built into the larger sizes than the size 2. Do you measure a size 2 in the waist and hips as well? I’m thinking that maybe you cut the size 4 and do the 3/4″ FBA. There are no set-in sleeves here, so I don’t think you’ll see a huge difference in the fit in the shoulders. But, if it pulls too much across the bust, it won’t hang very nicely. And I think there’s only so much spreading you can realistically do.

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    mlinton @mlinton

    Thanks for the feedback ladies, you’ve given me lots of ideas! I’m actually a straight 10 in these patterns in the bust, waist, and hips, and arms, but the larger size is too big for the neck, shoulders, and back, at least with patterns in the past. It’s good to know there are many options so I can try to get a great fit.

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    meleliza @meleliza

    That’s exactly the point of the FBA. You’re small/narrow in the shoulders but need room in other places. Shoulders, neck and back are more difficult to adjust, so we pick sizes to fit those parts and adjust for the others. Even though this is a loose fitting style, there isn’t a ton of room in the waist and hips, so you will need to grade out to the proper sizes there in addition to the FBA.

    LINK

    I’m wondering if the FBA for this pattern is easier than the Cinema dress. This will be my first time sewing a dress for myself, and adjusting the fit on Cinema was so hard that I eventually gave up. If you have experience with both, do you think this dress would be easier to fit? Thanks for the help.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Sorry for the silence Peggy. I don’t have much up front, nor have I made the Capuccino dress but hopefully someone else will chime in with their thoughts soon….

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Thanks for your patience, Peggy. I finally had a couple of minutes to go back and review the FBA instructions for this one (it’s been a long time since I wrote them), and I think it’s quite straightforward. The technique is similar to the Cinema Dress but maybe a little easier? Also, if you’re struggling with fit, I highly recommend the Fit for Real People book. It addresses a lot of issues you might run into and shows very straightforward ways to fix them. I use it in all my fit workshops! And of course we’re here to help on the forums, too.

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