Oliver + S

Fitting suggestions please

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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    thesimpson5 @thesimpson5

    Hi friends!
    I wondered if anyone could take a look at this picture and maybe offer a suggestion for my next Classic Shirt. Per my measurements, I made a size 4. I’m pleased with the fit everywhere except around my shoulders. You can see the lines from it pulling in the picture. Also, not pictured, there is a little buckling at the top of the back yoke right under the collar. Should the first thing I try be to make a size 6 and grade down to a 4 at waist, length, and sleeve length? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

    • This topic was modified 5 months ago by  thesimpson5.
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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Try this. Pinch out about a 1cm vertical dart in the middle of the shoulder and see if that gets rid of the drag lines.
    I often do this to flat patterns before cutting. I tend to leave the back shoulder the same and just ease the slightly maladjusted lengths together. For the nape of neck bunching you would do a horizontal pinch, almost like a mini sideways diamond dart on the pattern tissue.
    Try pinning those and see how you like it.
    The bust fit looks perfect and I don’t know that you’d want to drop a whole size….

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Here’s a picture showing how I might try a few little flat pattern changes to deal with that fabric “puddling” above the bust point.
    Edit: image too big. Maybe this link will work… https://www.instagram.com/p/_58g8LHsSu/

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    mlinton @mlinton

    I can’t tell from the picture, but the shoulder width doesn’t seem too narrow to me, so I wouldn’t necessarily change the size. Does the shoulder seam sit where you want (not pulling backward or forward)? This looks like a square shoulder to me. I would try adjusting by raising the shoulder seam slope in the front and back and then raising the underarm the same amount so that you aren’t changing the total armhole size. Fit for real people has good directions for this alteration or you can probably google it to get a visual.

    • This reply was modified 5 months ago by  mlinton.
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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    I agree with @mlinton. It’s a little difficult to tell from just one photo, but it looks to me like you have a very square shoulder. The Fit for Real People book explains how to make the adjustment very clearly. You’ll need to account for the yoke, but even then I think it’s an easy fix and should help to get you a great-fitting shirt!

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    thesimpson5 @thesimpson5

    Thanks everyone! I have the Fit for Real People book, so I will head to the square shoulder adjustment section and see what I can figure out. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

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