Robin

That’s great! Would love to see a photo if you post it someplace. It sounds like a terrific project!

Hi there, I would be inclined to make the change at the underarm part just because it’s easy, but it might depend on what you need.

It should be fine at 1/2″, no worries!

I saw a faux suede trim at Mokuba in Paris a few weeks ago. I´m sure they have it in the New York store as well–you could call and ask them about it. It seemed perfect for this purpose, to me.

Interesting idea! I wonder if you could make it two layers with encased elastic between the two layers to finish the bottom edge? In my mind I can engineer it but… I think it would be quite easy to sew, actually!

Hello, that photo was inspiration only, from a vintage Bonnie Cashin cape. You can take our pattern and modify it to be similar to that style, but I don’t have specific details on the vintage item to give you. Yes, she bound a lot of her clothing in leather strips. You could experiment with similar fabric or with real leather. I’ve also seen a…[Read more]

Sorry for the delay. yes, the second photo is exactly what you should do. And it won’t affect your grainline–just choose one of the lines (above or below the split) and extend that to be your grainline. No problem. Looking good!

Sounds like an issue for a repair person. I’m sure they can fix it easily.

For the newer Liesl + Co. patterns, there is a printing guide on page 3 that tells you which pages are the A0 pages. You can upload the file and tell the printer to just print those pages. Or if you want to separate them out and send just the A0 pages instead of the whole file, you can use this free tool to do that.

https://www.ilovepdf.com/split_pdf

I think you’d probably be ok choosing a size 10 and maybe reducing the width at the hips if you find that you need it. Its something you can do after you’ve sewn it if you want. Just turn the dress inside out, pin the hips to be as narrow as you want, and re-sew them. Regarding the height, it depends on where you are tall. I’m 5’8″ and long…[Read more]

If you raise the V-neck (which you can absolutely do, no problem) you’ll want to shorten the collar at the center back so it fits correctly. Again, easy to do–just measure at the seam line and shorten at the back seam by the same amount. I hope that helps!

Ok, it looks like maybe your shoulders are wider than the pattern? I think you could make an adjustment for this by drawing a wider shoulder on the front and back pattern pieces.

Hi Claudia, I’m not sure what you mean by drawings? Do you mean drag lines? Can you post a photo so we can see what’s happening?

The digital version of the pattern includes A0 pages which can also be used for a projector if you like.

Our patterns are designed for someone of average height–approximately 5’6″–but whether you want to lengthen or shorten, and the location of that lengthening or shortening, will depend on your particular body. I’m 5’8″ but I’m also very long through the torso so I usually need to lengthen the torso of our patterns to fit myself. But if you have…[Read more]

No, seam allowances are included in all our patterns.

Eileen, I think you’re confusing the markings for the dots with the markings for the lines themselves. The lines are marked directly ON the line. The dots are marked next to the dots. I hope that helps.

Here is a blog post that I hope will help!

how to raise or lower a dart

Hi, yes the Classic Shirt is more boxy like the Camp Shirt. The Recital Shirt is more fitted because of the fish darts in the back, but you can eliminate them if you want that style to be more boxy also. I hope that helps!

Hi, yes, that’s intentional to give you a little more room through the bust. If you want, you can baste the side seam and try it on to see how it works. In our experience it’s helpful, but if you don’t like it you can always straighten it. Just make sure you have enough room before you remove it.