[Jan Jeddeloh]

I am trying to make Geneva in size 18 with the D cup bust problem. My muslin shows I need to lower the bust dart about an inch. 67 year old boobs aren’t very perky! Normally I’d box it and slide it down but I’m flummoxed by the big bump out which start pretty much at the sleeve seam intersection. I don’t want to just change the angle of the dart because a downward pointing bust dart isn’t attractive.

Thank you for any help.

[Lightning McStitch]

By the “big bump out” I’m guessing you mean the extension of the dart that goes beyond the side seam?
If you include that when you box and slide the dart then you’ll have the dart meet the side edge nicely after you’ve sewn it.
You’ve got the right technique in mind for what you want to do.
If that’s not what you mean, then maybe a picture will help explain your question?

[Jan Jeddeloh]

No it’s not the dart extension that’s the problem. It’s the whole shape of the side seam. Here’s a picture so you can see what I mean. I hope Liesl replies to this thread. Let’s see if I can attach a picture.

[Jan Jeddeloh]

Let’s try again.

Attachments:

1. 

   IMG_4203.jpeg
   

[Liesl Gibson]

Hi, yes, that’s intentional to give you a little more room through the bust. If you want, you can baste the side seam and try it on to see how it works. In our experience it’s helpful, but if you don’t like it you can always straighten it. Just make sure you have enough room before you remove it.

[Jan Jeddeloh]

I don’t want to remove the bump, I want to lower it because the dart needs to be lowered an inch. The bump is quite pronounced and I need the extra room so I need to slide it down but it starts right at the arm pit which makes it hard. Usually patterns with a dart go relatively straight down from the sleeve intersection but this one flies out to the side a lot. It’s not unusual for someone with a larger bust to also need a lower dart, gravity and all.

Yes I’ve made a muslin which is how I know the dart is too high.

Thank you

[Liesl Gibson]

Here is a blog post that I hope will help!

how to raise or lower a dart