[Carol J]

I’m about to sew a dress & use a knit fabric for the very first time with the Belgravia dress pattern. I’m uncertain which size to choose. The body measurements put me as bust size 10, waist size 12 & hip size 6. With it being a knit fabric would I be OK to pick just one size – I’m thinking size 10 (by my bust size) or should I consider grading between sizes.
I’m also 5’9 & wondering if I need to lengthen the bodice & skirt sections. What height do you design for? I can’t find this measurement on the pattern. Thanks

[Liesl Gibson]

I think you’d probably be ok choosing a size 10 and maybe reducing the width at the hips if you find that you need it. Its something you can do after you’ve sewn it if you want. Just turn the dress inside out, pin the hips to be as narrow as you want, and re-sew them. Regarding the height, it depends on where you are tall. I’m 5’8″ and long waisted, so I always lengthen our patterns by 1″ between the bust and waist. But if your height is mostly in your legs you can add length to the skirt if you want. The length is given in the finished measurements chart so you can decide if you want it longer. I hope that helps. Have fun!

[Carol J]

Thank you for your reply.
I’ve only just started, but unfortunately I’ve got a little stuck. I’m increasing the bodice length by 1 & 1/4″ along the lengthening line. I’ve never done this before & according to my sewing book & everything I read, I should keep the grainline straight through the separated pieces, but if I do this the seam lines are thrown out, especially on the front bodice. I’ve now realised this must be because the front bodice isn’t cut on the straight. Before I alter or I cut anything out, I just want to check that I should keep the front seam line straight. And on the back bodice is the best way to avoid a bulge in the side seam by straightening the cutting line between the side seam notch and the bottom of the armscye? Thanks

[Lightning McStitch]

Hi @caroljohnson , there’s a nice blog post about lengthening patterns here:

lengthening and shortening a pattern

Use the grain line as it’s marked on the pattern to ensure that you spread your pattern pieces evenly. It doesn’t matter whether it’s the cut on the grain or on the bias when you lay it on the fabric.

It will require some blending by eye where you split the pattern as they won’t be straight lines.

Also, be careful with the depth/width of the bottom of the V neck if that’s not above the point where you’re lengthening the pattern.

[Lightning McStitch]

Edit: of course it does matter how you line the pattern grain line up with the fabric grain. I worded that badly.
What I mean is that you lengthen your pattern first, using a cut that’s perpendicular to the line on the pattern tissue. That part is the same whether you’re dealing with a pattern piece cut on the grain (the back bodice) or off-grain (the front bodice).

If the amount you’re increasing the length by is giving you some crazy angles then break it up. Add half at the split line and the other half at the lower edge of the pattern piece

[Carol J]

Thank you @lightningmcstitch for your replies and the link. I think I’ve now done the back bodice but I’m still unsure about the front bodice.
I think I may not have explained myself very well. I’m attaching a photo which I hope will explain better than I’ve managed with words alone. If the straight of grain continues across the inserted piece from the top half to the bottom half of the bodice the front and side seams no longer line up. I can’t see how to grade these seams without substantially changing the shape. If I use the outer lines I will effectively widen the bodice as well as lengthen it.

Attachments:

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   20231127_163355_resized.jpg
   

[Carol J]

This photo shows what I think I need to do i.e line up the front seam (shown by the ruler) so that I can easily continue the side seam. The straight of grain line will not be continuous but the piece will still be straight. This seams to me to lengthen the front bodice but not alter any other aspects.

Attachments:

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   20231127_163536_resized_1.jpg
   

[Liesl Gibson]

Sorry for the delay. yes, the second photo is exactly what you should do. And it won’t affect your grainline–just choose one of the lines (above or below the split) and extend that to be your grainline. No problem. Looking good!