[Susan]

I am about to begin sewing a Yanaka Jacket in a lovely brocade. I expect that I will need to alter for my bicep. Should I do this in the underarm area of the gusset and the back part of the top sleeve?

[Liesl Gibson]

Hi there, I would be inclined to make the change at the underarm part just because it’s easy, but it might depend on what you need.

[Molly_Sews]

I have nearly completed my calico toile of the Yanaka Jacket. It’s looking very promising but I realise that I will need a full bicep adjustment. I nearly always need one! I noted your reply to Susan but I’m unsure exactly how to go about this kind of bicep adjustment because I’ve never made a sleeve like this before. Here is a link to the only tutorial I could find (please feel free to remove the link from my message if you wish as it links to another pattern company)https://inthefolds.com/q-a-series/2024/full-bicep-adjustment-grown-on-sleeve
Could you please advise about how to add about 1.5 am to gusset? I’m guessing that you slash in the middle and keep the cuff and top of the gusset the same width?
I’m making this for a wedding so don’t have much time to get this right before I cut into my proper (expensive) fabric.
thank you

[Liesl Gibson]

Hello! That tutorial will probably give you good results. What I would suggest in your case, however, is that you open up all the seams at the bicep to allow the gaps to show you where it wants more room. You can probably give the extra space at the seams by adding a little more seam allowance, especially at the seam along the shoulder and top of the sleeve. Does that make sense? I think it will save you some time and allow you to avoid making another muslin. I’ll keep watching here in case you have further questions!

[Liesl Gibson]

It’s basically what the tutorial is doing, actually. If you look at the end result they’ve essentially raised the seam line and curved it a bit more. It’s just a fancier way of doing it. I would suggest that you watch for drag lines that indicate a necessary adjustment elsewhere, but I think your end result will be very similar if you do it the simpler method. Keep me posted!