KarenK

Nancy, I’m really sorry but I’m not understanding your question(s). Can you re-ask it/them or maybe post a photo of what you’re trying to do?

I don’t have the pattern in front of me, but you’ll want to determine how much overlap was left for the buttons. Usually I leave about 1″ (1/2″ on either side), so that would mean you can trim 1/2″ from each side and use the remaining 1/2″ seam allowance. You’ll have to confirm that with the instructions and the pattern markings, however. I’m on…[Read more]

Hello, and a few quick answers to your questions: you can probably use unbleached muslin if you pre-wash it, and I would likely toss it in the dryer to be sure it’s completely shrunk. They press it well before use. My experience with Aurifil is limited but I would suggest an all-purpose thread for apparel stitching. It’s best when the thread has…[Read more]

The yoke is double fabric, so maybe you wouldn’t need one? Or what about making a slip dress to wear underneath? You could use the Pinwheel to make a simple slip that could be worn under other things as well. It wouldn’t be difficult to fully line it, but it might make it a bit heavy.

I’m glad you figured it out as well. And here’s a little more information to help you in the future. Patterns are graded from the center-front or center-back neck, but when I lay out the patterns I often nest them differently than they are graded in order to make the various size lines more visible. If you need to make a change you’ll have to take…[Read more]

Ha! I love the tag you put in the collar. I’m thinking this particular shirt was made with more swear words that most!

So glad you figured out the issue, and thanks for providing an update.

I’ve got no idea either. The only suggestion I can think is to go back and triple-check everything again. Sorry I can’t be more helpful! It can be difficult to determine what went wrong, I know. Keep up posted, ok?

It’s difficult to sew for someone without actually being able to fit a muslin for them. You could always use a larger neckline/collar on a smaller size if needed.

For corduroy, since it’s so thick and heavy you might want to use larger buttons. You’ll have to use your judgement. You can probably make 1/2″ buttons work–you’ll just have to be sure the buttonholes are small enough to support the buttons and be sure to leave enough of a shank when you sew the buttons that they don’t pull themselves through the…[Read more]

Paula, I would LOVE to write that book! It’s on my wish list, but to be quite honest it’s very expensive for me to write a book. I don’t make much money from books and it takes a very long time to make a book. If I could somehow make a living and write that book I would do it in a heartbeat. But we lose money on books, so it’s not in the near…[Read more]

Agreed, or you could go the reverse route and start with the large pattern and use the Fit for Real People book to help you adjust the body of the shirt to a larger size. To me that seems like the easier route, but either way would work.

Oh, I hope so! There is a sew-along for this one if it helps. https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2017/05/liesl-co-classic-shirt-sew-along.html

Yes, they should be completely interchangeable!

It could just be that the pattern piece didn’t digitize perfectly symmetrically and we didn’t catch it. Sorry about that. I’d suggest that you just fold it in half and trim it to be symmetrical. I’ll check the file and issue a correction when I get a chance.

Yes, it’s on my list and I hope to get a tutorial up soon!

I see that you got lots of answers to this question in the Facebook group!

That looks great! Well done.

Hi Kaitlin. Sorry I’m not following you. Maybe you can post a photo so we can see what you mean?

My preferred lightweight lining is cotton voile or lawn, and I line dry almost everything I sew. Before hanging it up the dry give it a good, sharp snap and it won’t need a lot of ironing after it’s dry.

The seam allowances are already included in the pattern pieces. As explained in the book, for many of the alterations you’ll need to draw in the stitching lines, which are 1/2″ inside the cutting lines.