Nirmala D

Hi Karin,
I am no expert but am working on a muslin of the Saint Germaine. If you look at the printed pattern pieces for the waistband, note which way the lettering and name of the pattern piece goes. This will indicate which side is UP for each piece. And, you are right, it is not intuitive – one does slightly curve up and the other slightly…[Read more]

Thank you, Reeni! Its just regular, light weight cotton jersey.

So I have continued on. Perhaps everyone is just too busy to weigh in on my questions. Or perhaps there is somewhere else I should be visiting or asking. Anyway, I made 3 additional small changes to the armhole – bringing the sleeve in deeper at the shoulder, yoke and just below the yoke.
Here are the latest efforts, if anyone has time to look…[Read more]

Here are 2 new photos showing the sleeve back and front. I reduced the width of the top of the shoulder by about 3/8 ” tapering to nothing about 3 ” down the front and the back yoke. I think the front is improved with this narrower shoulder. But Please help me understand what I am seeing in the back. What are the wrinkles saying? I does not…[Read more]

Here are the bodice photos. St Germaine

Thank you, Liesl. I do understand what you mean about the body map. Could you or one of the advisors take a look at the muslin fit so far and tell me what you see. I have been trying but not sure what I am seeing. This is Muslin #4 (size 8 D, grading to 14 at waist. There is no FBA as it seems to have ease now in chest. I did a full arm…[Read more]

Back again. My apologies but not understanding how to post correctly. I am still pursuing the Saint Germaine with a muslin #4. I have these questions:
If I am starting from a size to fit my upper bust measurement and grading to larger size for waist and hips ( say size 6 D cup going to a 12 for waist and hips) and doing a full arm adjustment to…[Read more]

Thank you SO much for the advice and encouragement, Lyndsey,!

Back again! I am now struggling with the fitted sleeve. Again, any advice gratefully received. My upper arms are heavy. I tried to account for this by sizing up in the arm and in the under arm seam allowance. I also adjusted the arm hole opening as suggested for the forward shoulder. This helped but there is still a pull when I raise my arm.…[Read more]

Thanks so much for your help. I actually allowed more while cutting but marked it where it should be. Moving on to the next step.

I am working on the tissue fitting using the 6 D. I lengthened the bodice pieces first by 3/4 inch. While the D reaches the mid point in the front, I think there is not enough ease. I will next try the FBA of 1.5 inches and see how that goes. Challenge is to understand where apex is or will be. Whew!

Lyndsey, thank you so much for taking the time to reply in detail and great to see your muslin and record of adjustments you made.
I think that the extra fabric in front is because the waist and waistband is riding up because they aren’t wide enough, rather than that I am short waisted.
I just got the book by Palmer etc Fit for Real people t…[Read more]

One last thing. I pinned the muslin to the center line and it is clearly too tight. Its seems to have a natural gap of about 3/4 inch at the top increasing at waist to 1.5 inches.