Oliver + S

More help with Saint Germaine Muslin #3

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
  • LINK
    Nirmala D @NirmalaD

    Hi friends, can you take a look at the fit of my 3rd Muslin to give advice? It is a size 6 D that transitions to a 14 at the waist. New to fitting, I adjusted 3/4″ in height for front and back.And made a high round backhand forward shoulder adjustment. Then my first FBA of 1″ to add ease. My measurements are 35″ high bust, 37.5 full bust, 32.5 waist and 39.5 hips. The lower back seemed very full and so I took a tuck, right in the muslin, of 1/2 ” across the lower back.
    What do you see? I have not yet attached the waistband. Thank you. Nirmala

    LINK
    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    It’s looking good to me! The bodice is definitely too long in the back, and maybe a little long in the front as well? But I think you’re on the right track.

    LINK
    Nirmala D @NirmalaD

    Thanks so much for your help. I actually allowed more while cutting but marked it where it should be. Moving on to the next step.

    LINK
    Nirmala D @NirmalaD

    Back again! I am now struggling with the fitted sleeve. Again, any advice gratefully received. My upper arms are heavy. I tried to account for this by sizing up in the arm and in the under arm seam allowance. I also adjusted the arm hole opening as suggested for the forward shoulder. This helped but there is still a pull when I raise my arm. And it pulls and distorts the front. I am thinking I should next try to enlarge the sleeve by doing a crosscut and spread sort of adjustment.
    I attached the waistband also. Looking at it, I see what Liesl meant that the bodice and back are too long. I had added 3/4 inch of length to all pieces because I thought bodice of earlier muslin was too short. Now I think I was wrong to do this because I see that the bodice is really not meant to come to the waist, but higher. Evan with the waistband seems it should barely make the natural waist. Is that right?
    Felling a bit discouraged. Perhaps I should break ou the last of the muslin and try again.

    LINK
    Lyndsey @madelouisville

    You are doing great!!! Fit is a process. It gets exhausting but it is so worth it.
    As for the arms, I have VERY full biceps. I have a really hard time with fitted sleeves, but the other sleeve for this pattern I was able to use with ZERO adjustments. Maybe try it out?
    As for the waist, at least the way I fit it, my natural waist hits at the bottom of the waistband/top of the skirt.Look at the close-up of the model wearing the pink dress on the pattern webpage. That should give you an idea of where it will hit.

    LINK
    Nirmala D @NirmalaD

    Thank you SO much for the advice and encouragement, Lyndsey,!

    LINK
    Nirmala D @NirmalaD

    Back again. My apologies but not understanding how to post correctly. I am still pursuing the Saint Germaine with a muslin #4. I have these questions:
    If I am starting from a size to fit my upper bust measurement and grading to larger size for waist and hips ( say size 6 D cup going to a 12 for waist and hips) and doing a full arm adjustment to add about 1.5 inches, do I need to adjust the armhole? Or should I start that as is in the smaller size?

    #2 Would the Bistro dress pattern be a good one to use to make a “body map” in muslin as described in Fit for Real People?
    Apologies if this is a repeat. I attempted to post yesterday but I do not see that post. Nirmala

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

copyright

Unless otherwise credited, all work on this blog is © Liesl + Co., Inc, 2008-2020. You are welcome to link to this blog, but please ask permission before using any text or images.