Tamara

Hi Bonnie,
I’ve seen it done with toggles, buttons and even a zipper.
As for sizing and closure tips if you click on the School Days Coat subforum (where you’ve correctly posed your question) you’ll find lots of info.

I always liked making my kids their true size. It was a bit big immediately, a perfect fit the following winter and a wee bit…[Read more]

Hi Mia,
It’s been a long time since I’ve seen a bubble dress (so cute!) but ni, there aren’t any exposed seams.
You create the outer bodice, then a similar bodice lining, then sew them together all around the neckline and armholes.
It’s a lovely clean finish.
You can look ahead in the pattern instructions to see how it will come together or just…[Read more]

Hi Carol (@psgfinn)
Many of the patterns, including the Geneva blouse (your query is in that sub forum) include different pattern pieces for different cup sizes.
Liesl explains in this post how to choose your correct size:

finding your correct pattern size

In short: go with high bust size then…[Read more]

Hi @pegalot
The instructions for finishing the bell sleeve are on page 3. There are detailed steps there that show how the sleeve is finished using the sleeve facing.

Edit: of course it does matter how you line the pattern grain line up with the fabric grain. I worded that badly.
What I mean is that you lengthen your pattern first, using a cut that’s perpendicular to the line on the pattern tissue. That part is the same whether you’re dealing with a pattern piece cut on the grain (the back bodice) or off-grain…[Read more]

Hi @caroljohnson , there’s a nice blog post about lengthening patterns here:

lengthening and shortening a pattern

Use the grain line as it’s marked on the pattern to ensure that you spread your pattern pieces evenly. It doesn’t matter whether it’s the cut on the grain or on the bias when you lay…[Read more]

@whimsy hi Mary, depends on what you want to have “work”.
From the pattern pieces, and the way the underarm gusset becomes part of the sleeve, if you want to match the pattern of a plaid that sounds like a nightmare.
If you don’t care about pattern matching, or want to embrace the “lines” of the pattern by highlighting them with mismatched plaid…[Read more]

Hi @mollyshark
There are two versions of the pattern you can click on to purchase.
The first: ‘Fira Top + Dress Pattern” is a paper pattern that will be posted to you.
The second: “Digital Fira Top + Dress Pattern” is a digital pdf pattern that you download. You can print at home, or at a copy shop on A0 or 36″ plan printing. I don’t believe they…[Read more]

By the “big bump out” I’m guessing you mean the extension of the dart that goes beyond the side seam?
If you include that when you box and slide the dart then you’ll have the dart meet the side edge nicely after you’ve sewn it.
You’ve got the right technique in mind for what you want to do.
If that’s not what you mean, then maybe a picture will…[Read more]

And another t-shirt dress post using the circle skirt of the Building Block Dress pattern

sewing the building block dress with knit fabrics

There’s no end with what you can do with a t-shirt!
Here’s a blog post of mine (apologies for self referencing) from way back turning the School Bus tee into a ruffle dress

ruffle skirt dress

Hi Eleanor, The short answer is it doesn’t matter. The PLaytime tunic is designed to be sewn in a woven fabric so there’s no need for nay stretch. that’s not to say you can’t sew it in a stable stretch fabric (a really drapey, slinky knot fabric might be weird).
Given that you don’t need the facings to stretch, you can interface them in whichever…[Read more]

Hi,
Whenever I want the sleeves from one pattern and the body from another I just take the armhole with the sleeve
Say, for example you wanted the Book Report sleeve on the Fairy Tale dress: trace the Book Report bodice/upper dress part and lay that tracing over the Fairy Tale bodice. Try and line up centre fronts and/or shoulder and side seams.…[Read more]

@lisam cheat’s solution ?

Ah yes, I see that my “don’t clip it at all” idea wouldn’t work. I was thinking of the curve at the side seam being more like the gentle curve of the men’s shirt, or the kid’s sketchbook. I’ve made a few Classic/recital shirts so you’d think I’d remember!

I wonder what happens if you clip the seam allowance with the opposite angle? I might try…[Read more]

Hi @lisam can you add a photo to help us find a work around?
The one time I made a shirt and french seamed everything, I also squared off the hem as it was a casual All Day Shirt for my husband.
Right at the side seam there’s not much if any curve to the hem, and given it’s only a fairly narrow hem, I’d just try hemming it without any…[Read more]

Thanks for the image @karenbadeerThat helps a lot and has saved me digging out the book to check the pattern.
The image from the instructions just below your fabric demonstrates that the cape itself is made up, from centre front to centre front of the following:
1 front panel, 2 side panels, 1 back panel, another 2 side panels, 1 front panel.
Do…[Read more]

Hi @karenbadeer
Here’s the link to the previous topic that @novicesewistwas referring to: https://oliverands.com/community/forums/topic/red-riding-hood-pattern-size-m-cant-get-hood-to-line-up-right
But…. I don’t think that’s your problem. That post is talking about constructing the hood.
It has been years since I made this pattern, but there…[Read more]

Hi Tatiana,
Finishing the raw edge of the pocket facing is done to prevent the fabric fraying or unraveling at the edge.
You need to do it before you start attaching the pocket facing to the pocket or pants.
There’s a video on how to finish seam allowances here: https://oliverands.com/free-videos/how-to-finish-a-seam/
If that link isn’t clickable…[Read more]

Hi Bonnie, I’ve only ever made the jacket in stretch fabrics and from memory I’ve just used a straight stitch everywhere. I’d certainly use a single straight stitch at the shoulder dart so they press flat more easily.