juliamom2009

Try this. Pinch out about a 1cm vertical dart in the middle of the shoulder and see if that gets rid of the drag lines.
I often do this to flat patterns before cutting. I tend to leave the back shoulder the same and just ease the slightly maladjusted lengths together. For the nape of neck bunching you would do a horizontal pinch, almost like a…[Read more]

Anna, if you post in the Facebook group and on the forum will you do everyone a favor and copy the responses from one place to the other so we’re not replying twice? I see that you had a lot of replies in Facebook, and it would be nice to have them here as well so the question isn’t left hanging. Thanks.

Anna, if you post in the Facebook group and on the forum will you do everyone a favor and copy the responses from one place to the other so we’re not replying twice? Thanks.

Sure, provided that the two fabric work together. I’d be concerned that it would add weight to this top, and I’d probably be personally more inclined to wear a camisole under it than add a lining, but that’s probably a personal preference. Let us know how it turns out!

Sure, provided that the two fabric work together. I’d be concerned that they’d add weight to this top, and I’d probably be personally more inclined to wear a camisole under it than add a lining, but that’s probably a personal preference. Let us know how it turns out!

Are you meaning the crotch seam? I really like to do pyjamas with a flat felled crotch seam. It’s neat and strong (for some reason my kids always turn into karate fighters or pro wrestlers at bedtime).
If you’ve already seen the seam, then be sure to double stitch it between the notches for extra strength. Clip as needed and press to one side then…[Read more]

As I said in the Facebook group, I haven’t tried that pattern in a knit. I think it would probably work, but you would probably want a stable knit. I really like linen jersey, but it does tend to be quite sheer. If you try it, let us know how it turns out!

Did you also see that someone else said she has done it and it worked?

Absolutely! I adore double gauze. Be aware that it can ravel quite a bit, so take care when handling your cut fabric. The finished result is so, so lovely. I hope you have fun with it!

That’s always a good idea! I have some double gauze that I just can’t quite bring myself to cut into yet. It was expensive and I love it so much, I want to be absolute positive that I’m ready to use it.

Hi @littletrish, the placket for the center-front of the shirt is the same for all sizes, so it’s proportionally longer for the smaller sizes than the larger. Is that where you’re having trouble?

Yes, in fact sometimes I finish the lining seam allowances too. It depends on the fabric and how much I’m worried about ravelling. I hope that helps!

Ava, you can choose whether to finish them. I sometimes do, even on a lined dress, but it’s not absolutely necessary unless you have a fabric that ravels a lot. When a lining is open at the bottom, like on dresses, sometimes it’s still a good idea to finish the seam allowances. But it’s really a judgement call on your part.

Hello Eliza, either of these lovely patterns work beautifully as a ‘jumper’. My experience is that the Seashore is a slightly narrower fitting than the Tea Party – especially when worn over a top. The pockets in the Seashore are a lovely way of adding some colour without creating problems for the colours of the tops you have. Certainly the design…[Read more]

I think both of them would work in lightweight denim! It’s really going to be a matter of which one you prefer. When I first designed the Tea Party Sundress for S she wore it layered in the winter as well. Can’t wait to see how it turns out for you!

Like other fibers, Tencel comes in a lot of different weights, so it’s difficult to say without seeing the fabric itself. If it feels heavier than a typical heavy shirt fabric it might be too much. But you can certainly make shirts from canvas and flannel, so you’ll probably have to make a judgement call on this one. Maybe look at other shirts and…[Read more]

I haven’t tried adding a lining to this pattern, buy maybe someone else will chime in who has?

I haven’t tried adding a lining, buy maybe someone else will chime in who has?

Sorry for the silence, @esseesee! We’ve been on vacation. Because of the pleats, this pattern is quite forgiving in terms of measurements. It’s difficult to give a hip measurement as a result of the built-in ease. If you find that the side seam buckles you might want to draw a wider hip curve, but that would be the only necessary change, really.…[Read more]

Liesl has corrected the problem with the pattern, and we’ve placed an errata notice on the website. It can be found here. Fortunately, it’s a simple issue to fix.

https://oliverands.com/liesl-and-co-patterns/OLV-LC017SS.html#tab-errata

The digital version of the pattern has been updated with this fix.

@cat75, as you suspected, the center pleat is the problem. It isn’t graded correctly, and I’m so sorry about that! I’m working on a solution to the problem, but in the meantime, if you want to restitch the pleat to be 2″ from the rise seam I think that should solve the problem. Will you report back to me and let me know if that works? I’m still…[Read more]