Cheri

The upper bust/full bust thing works great for some people and not at all for others, unfortunately. It’s a general guideline that helps a lot of people to get a good fit, but if you’re wearing a DDD bra then clearly you’re not an A/B. From what I can see in the photos it looks like you’re getting a good fit. This is a loose-fitting shirt, so it…[Read more]

Oh, I’m glad to see you here! I was a little worried that everyone had moved exclusively to the Facebook group, but this is such a nice community I hope you’ll stay. I just finished sewing all the samples for our fall photo shoot last weekend, and now I’m catching up on email before I dive into spring pattern development. Somehow I want to fit in…[Read more]

The lowest number listed is the number of the printing. So since your pattern, @4dfamily98, has a 1 that means it’s the first printing.

@juliarhodes, did you check the finished measurements chart? That’s often the best way to determine which size you want to make, since it gives you the actual finished measurements which you can compare to your body and where you want the waistband to sit when it’s done. You might also want to compare it to other clothes that fit the way you like.…[Read more]

Sorry, what do you mean by in-line pockets? We cover lots of different pockets and pocket construction in the Building Block Dress book. Does that have what you need?

A raglan sleeve is really a patternmaking technique rather than a pattern alteration technique. It’s quite complicated. I’d suggest starting with a pattern like the Carousel Dress, like Lightning suggests, so you don’t need to draft the sleeve yourself.

I don’t know what PA glue is either. Ban-Rol is really designed for dressy men’s trousers, and it makes the waistband very stiff. So maybe the glue serves to secure the Ban-Rol to the fabric? You might want to find out. But the exact width of the stuff isn’t so important since you’ll pull threads to determine how wide your hem will be. Good luck!…[Read more]

Ugh, wish I could help! I sort of freak out whenever my serger starts giving me problems. Sometimes, like with sewing machines, it helps to just re-thread it. But given how much I hate re-threading a serger, that’s no small task. Do you have a good local repair shop? It might be worth stopping by to see if they can offer advice and maybe a quick fix?

That sounds perfect! You can use the folded placket instead of the set-in placket to eliminate extra cutting and sewing. You might want to confirm the sleeve length with the cuff as well, and be sure the staystitch the neckline so it doesn’t distort while you’re trying it on. Good for you, making a muslin! It’s well worth it in the long run.

It looks great! Congratulations on finishing it! I’m sure the next one will go faster.

Julia, piece 16 is the front placket, which is one of the first things you sew at the very beginning of the instructions on page 1. There is a pattern piece identification chart at the very beginning of the instructions to help you.

I vote for serge, personally. If you have a serger all those little clips just sort of disappear in the stitching. Cheers!

I agree with @mlinton. It’s a little difficult to tell from just one photo, but it looks to me like you have a very square shoulder. The Fit for Real People book explains how to make the adjustment very clearly. You’ll need to account for the yoke, but even then I think it’s an easy fix and should help to get you a great-fitting shirt!

If you have a copy of the Building Block Dress book I explain how to draft an A-line from the bodice. You could certainly do something like that for this style if you’re certain you need extra room through the hips. Otherwise I’d suggest gently blending between sizes starting someplace between the bust and waist so you can get an easy curve. I…[Read more]

Anna, if you post in the Facebook group and on the forum will you do everyone a favor and copy the responses from one place to the other so we’re not replying twice? I see that you had a lot of replies in Facebook, and it would be nice to have them here as well so the question isn’t left hanging. Thanks.

Anna, if you post in the Facebook group and on the forum will you do everyone a favor and copy the responses from one place to the other so we’re not replying twice? Thanks.

Sure, provided that the two fabric work together. I’d be concerned that it would add weight to this top, and I’d probably be personally more inclined to wear a camisole under it than add a lining, but that’s probably a personal preference. Let us know how it turns out!

Sure, provided that the two fabric work together. I’d be concerned that they’d add weight to this top, and I’d probably be personally more inclined to wear a camisole under it than add a lining, but that’s probably a personal preference. Let us know how it turns out!

As I said in the Facebook group, I haven’t tried that pattern in a knit. I think it would probably work, but you would probably want a stable knit. I really like linen jersey, but it does tend to be quite sheer. If you try it, let us know how it turns out!

Did you also see that someone else said she has done it and it worked?

Absolutely! I adore double gauze. Be aware that it can ravel quite a bit, so take care when handling your cut fabric. The finished result is so, so lovely. I hope you have fun with it!