Oliver + S

Fitting help

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    Karin @KarinFoster

    I am having difficulty getting the classic shirt to fit me properly. I started out by taking my measurements (H: 40, W: 31, B:37, UB: 35)
    Since the different between UB and B is only 2″ I started with the size 10A/B (although I had my suspicions this wouldn’t work well since I wear a 32DDD bra and have lots of trouble finding button up tops that fit properly)

    The 10A/B was WAY too big so then I went down to the size 8 – still way too big – so I switched gears and decided to use the C cup and just pick a size off my UBM, I made a muslin using the size 4C. It is better but still feels loose over all and now has a pucker from the shoulder to the bust area. (see attached pictures)

    Do I go down to the size 2C, or maybe 2D? or 4D? or just make a custom size by playing with the dart on this muslin?


    Liesl Gibson

    The upper bust/full bust thing works great for some people and not at all for others, unfortunately. It’s a general guideline that helps a lot of people to get a good fit, but if you’re wearing a DDD bra then clearly you’re not an A/B. From what I can see in the photos it looks like you’re getting a good fit. This is a loose-fitting shirt, so it won’t be like a fitted blouse. It looks like you’re getting a little gaping at the front placket, so I would recommend going up to the D cup. The drag line from the shoulder would be more likely to indicate that you have a very square shoulder and might need to raise the shoulder a bit. Do you have a copy of Fit for Real People? I don’t have mine handy at the moment, but they have a fix for this. And I seem to recall that someone else was working with a square shoulder as well and maybe could chime in? Carrie, was it you?

    Karin @KarinFoster

    Thanks so much for the suggestions! I went up a cup size and did a small square shoulder adjustment and it fits much better.

    I’ve sewn lots of clothes for my kids but this is my first attempt to make something that actually fits me – I’m excited to cut into the pretty fabric now that the muslin fits.

    thesimpson5 @thesimpson5

    Yes, I had the same drag line from the shoulder. I pulled out my Fit for Real People book to take a look at how to fix it, but haven’t tried it yet. I’m so glad to see it worked well for you!

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