[with love Heidi]

Enjay, I’m wondering if the shoulders are to wide? The outside edge of the top of the shoulder seam appears to be part way down your arm and the armsythe appears to be an inch or two onto the arm rather than sitting in the crease, not sure of a better way of saying this 🙁

Nicole did a great post on using a narrower shoulder and an FBA after she realised that her husbands shirts she was hanging the washing in, which were large on her, we’re severely restricting her movement. She then made her next item of clothing with narrower shoulder and a full bust adjustment. I can’t find the Blog post, if someone has a link maybe they could add it as the post explains things really well.

I’ve also just discovered that I have very narrow shoulders. I need to use the smallest size through the shoulder in Ottobre but then adjust for the largest sizes through the bust and hips! My patterns have a size 34 shoulder and sleeve cap (bust 80cm, shoulder width 13cm), with a size 50 bust (116cm) and 52 hips (122cm). I use my shoulder width to choose the shoulders. Yes, it’s an odd looking pattern but the fit is fantastic

I know this sounds counter intuitive but it works.

I hope some of this made sense, if it doesn’t please ask questions. Others may have different ideas opinions. Good luck 🙂

[Nicole]

This one Heidi?

http://fiveandcounting-motherof5.blogspot.com.au/2014/01/getting-all-continental-part-one.html

Thank you xx

[enajybbil]

So funny! I just googled “nicole blog fba narrow shoulder” and found that post!

I’m very much ok with starting at a smaller size and doing an fba. For knitted patterns I typically pick my size based on my upper bust (43) and the fit is usually just what I want.

[enajybbil]

I kind of understand the concept of wanting a smaller armhole but how would a smaller sleeve circumference help? Or should I set the as 20 sleeve into a sz 16 armhole?

Edited: Anothet thought I had was to just cut sleeves on the bias.

[Nicole]

Sorry not to have more time….. I am in newborn mode 🙂

I still need the width of the larger size sleeve, otherwise it is too tight.

[enajybbil]

So you *have* successfully set a larger sized sleeve into a smaller sized armhole? Is that what you’re saying?

[Nicole]

I narrow the shoulder but keep all the ‘opening’, does that make sense?

[enajybbil]

Ok yes I do see what you did more clearly now. Thank you!!

[Nicole]

Awesome, please come back if it is not working 🙂

[with love Heidi]

Yes Nicole, that’s the one! I couldn’t find it. It doesn’t seem to have the story but it’s got all the useful info 🙂

I have been using this “cheater full bust” idea to deal with needing wider sleeves. The idea is toward the bottom of the post, http://kitschycoo.blogspot.com.au/2013/06/the-lady-skater-fitting-and-adjustments.html

I have also found I need a different size at the back of the armsythe/sleeve than I need at the front, use side seam line for the 38 on the back of the armsyth and the line for the 42 on the front! Again these are Ottobre sizes because I have spent a lot of the last month fitting a couple of patterns 🙂

[with love Heidi]

Also, I used this tutorial to work out both the slope of my shoulders and their width. I was quite shocked at how narrow they are, I expected that they would be sloped but, at least compared to Ottobre, they aren’t. But they are very narrow!

This has been very helpful when looking at new patterns.

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com.au/2011/05/time-for-my-pattern-fitting-secrets.html

[enajybbil]

Ok! I did Nicole’s little adjustment on just the sleeve going from a 14 at the top of the cap out to a 20. I set it right back into the armhole and it looks and feels **much** better than before. One tiny little tweak was all it took for a good amount of change. I’m astounded! It’s still not quite right. I feel like the whole dress shouldn’t shift quite so much when I move my arms up. I’m wondering how to blend the sizing on the armhole since the Cinema pattern sizes aren’t nested (?). I might just go ahead and start trimming the muslin….

[with love Heidi]

If the sleeve patterns are nested you should be able to measure how much extra is on each side of the sleeve (from the 14 to the 20) and add the same amount onto the bodice side of the armholes. I’m not sure I’ve explained this well.

The other option is to “walk” the seam. you need the seam line marked in on both pieces and then starting from the shoulder seam you line up the seam lines. When you get to the notches you reverse the direction of the sleeve pattern, so the curves match, and go right to the end of the sleeve. This should give you an idea of how much you need to add.

If this doesn’t make sense please keep asking 🙂

It’s lovely when a small thing makes a big difference!

[cybele727]

I think tomorrow is culottes! Anyone else?

[cybele727]

Ok I just read all that stuff about narrowing the shoulder, and I must ask, isn’t that why you should use the high bust to pick your size for things fitted mostly through bust, and do FBA s and other alterations out for the tummy area, etc?

I am asking because I feel like I am missing something! And I want to do it right when I do this one!