Nicole

Yes, they should be completely interchangeable!

Do you have the Jump Rope Dress pattern? That shows the easy way to do a cuff where the sleeve has parallel sides.
Essentially a cuff is just a really deep single fold hem and then the folded edge is turned up again.
I would straighten out the sides of the sleeve to make them closer to parallel, then add a deep hem allowance with the slight angle…[Read more]

It could just be that the pattern piece didn’t digitize perfectly symmetrically and we didn’t catch it. Sorry about that. I’d suggest that you just fold it in half and trim it to be symmetrical. I’ll check the file and issue a correction when I get a chance.

Hi Natalie, sorry for the late reply, I’ve been trying to find a moment to pull out my pattern.
I have the paper printed pattern and you’re absolutely right, the pocket pattern pieces for both views A&B are 1/8th of an inch longer on one side. (Size doesn’t matter for the pocket pattern pieces)
I certainly didn’t notice that when I sewed the…[Read more]

Yes, it’s on my list and I hope to get a tutorial up soon!

I see that you got lots of answers to this question in the Facebook group!

That looks great! Well done.

You certainly could Sandy. You might find you don’t need to adjust it much as I think from memory I can get mine on/off without undoing it. If you mark the centre front pattern piece half an inch or so lower then draw in a new curve meeting back at the same shoulder point. Just remember to lengthen your bias finishing tape as well

Hi Kaitlin. Sorry I’m not following you. Maybe you can post a photo so we can see what you mean?

Hi @clairemichel , this is a nice,easy one to add length to.
You’ll see that in view A both the bodice and the skirt have straight sides so you can simply add length at the bottom of each pattern piece.
I have a long torso’ed daughter and find it’s easier to guesstimate how much extra length she needs and add that. If you try and lengthen to the…[Read more]

In step 2 the “cut placket piece” is not the 1″ strip you’ve just removed, but a separate pattern piece that you’ve cut from your fabric. Main, or possibly, a contrast fabric.
That should set you back on track.
Enjoy the sewing.

My preferred lightweight lining is cotton voile or lawn, and I line dry almost everything I sew. Before hanging it up the dry give it a good, sharp snap and it won’t need a lot of ironing after it’s dry.

The seam allowances are already included in the pattern pieces. As explained in the book, for many of the alterations you’ll need to draw in the stitching lines, which are 1/2″ inside the cutting lines.

@dorilloyd if I’m lining something then odds are it’s a special occasion dress that will need some ironing anyway. So ironing the lining is not a deal breaker. I have made many Fairy Tale dresses with cotton voile/Batiste lining and the bodice can all be ironed as one and just the lining and main skirts ironed separately. It’s not that much extra…[Read more]

P.S. If you’re not already part of our Liesl + Co Friends Facebook group you’ll fine lots of good advice from other people who have sewn our patterns there. They can speak from their own experiences to help you!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/friendsoflieslandco/

Oof, so many questions! So it sounds like you don’t need your first set of questions answered since you’ve already decided on a size. To answer your question about length, be sure to compare front and back from the bottom of the armhole since the yoke wraps around to the front by a bit. If you’ve shortened front and back by the same amount you…[Read more]

I just use my ordinary straight stitch foot for those seams. I just checked the post, and I think you’re referring to the edgestitching foot? I mentioned in the post that you can use it if you have trouble with straight stitching. With a little practice you really don’t need it, but it can be handy.

Yes, the two shirt collars are interchangeable, so that will work just fine! Can’t wait to see how yours turns out!