[with love Heidi]

Flounce is cut in a circular arc while gather is straight cut. One edge of the flounce is the same length as the edge it is to be sewn to while the other is longer, like a semi circle . A gather has both edges are parallel and the same length.
Sort of like the difference between a gathered skirt (apple picking ruffle) and the skirt of the pinwheel (flounce).
Here’s a link to a blog post Liesl did a few years ago. https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2013/03/flounce-vs-ruffle.html

[with love Heidi]

Flutter sleeves on the Chai tee sound lovely. I would go the whole hog and make a flounce rather than a gathered sleeve (unless that is the look you want). I think a flounced sleeve hangs much nicer than a plain gathered sleeve. Although a gathered sleeves would be very on trend!
Look foward to seeing it 🙂

[with love Heidi]

When will the new patterns arrive?
I need some more to survive

[with love Heidi]

Good to hear from you Nicole, I’m glad you’re internet has improved. I’ve been enjoying your makes over on patternreview. I just bought some duckling fabric which I think is the equivalent of the velour rabbit fabric you used for L,T and B.
I’ve been making lots of LTTS drawstring bags, it’s a fantastic way to use up my practice embroidery pieces from my embroidery machine. The bags are so nice and useful too 🙂
I’ve been sewing a lot of Jalie and Lutterloh (I bought the system in Feb, it’s fantastic!). But I needed an easy/follow the instructions make last week and made up the SeaShore sundress. I was reminded just how much I enjoy sewing Oliver and S patterns. Unfortunately my older 3 boys I sew for are outside the size range 🙁
It’s lovely to hear from you guys again!

[with love Heidi]

The Upton would be great!

[with love Heidi]

A fit and flare dress is silk would beautiful and appropriate for the situation. If you already have a pattern she likes (and optimistically fits) that is quite casual making it out of silk will bring a simple design into appropriate for 14 year old “cocktail” style.
I suspect the “cocktail” specification is to prevent some girls turning up in full on floor lengthy ball gowns!
Having been to the leavers dinner last year the one girl in a gorgeous floral sheath dress stood out as very elegant when lined up with the other girls mainly wearing white/pale draped dresses. And there was the beautiful fit and flare knee length red and black polkadot outfit (dress and shoes) that looked stunning! Although this was a “formal” event not “cocktail”.

[with love Heidi]

The last one or two pages will be set up to print the pattern on 36″ paper. The rest of the document will be set up to print the pattern on letter paper.
I print my patterns at home on A4 paper and stick them together.

[with love Heidi]

I’ve used fusible with good results. I made a wallet with fusible last January and it is still going strong with daily use.

[with love Heidi]

I know a number of the kids I sew for often end up wearing clothes I’ve made them back to front and it dose not seem to bother them. But I have not made this dress/tunic.

[with love Heidi]

I suspect t it will be much more difficult to add a zip to an already finished bodice than to modify the pattern and add one from scratch.

I’ve also made buttonholes for years on a machine without a bottonhole foot, just the regular foot and the 4 step buttonhole program. I’ve also made buttonholes with a dense zigzag stitch, regular foot and no program. I was very fortunate to learn to sew early on from my Mum and never realised that buttonholes were suppose to be difficult 🙂
Although on that note I rarely use buttons now as I have a large snap press. So unless it’s a very special garment it gets snaps rather than buttons.

[with love Heidi]

I haven’t done a zipper in the back yoke but I did add one to the front instead of the button back.

[with love Heidi]

Jill,can you shorten it half way down the straight part of the crotch? Then you will loose the length but not interfere with the pockets or back yoke.

[with love Heidi]

My book arrived today! It is good timing as I have to have this week off due to severe tonsillitis 🙁

[with love Heidi]

I would happily use cotton twill for this jacket. One of the fabrics the pattern suggests is flannel and I wouldn’t expect cotton twill to be much, if any thicker than flannel.

[with love Heidi]

Well done persevering toward a great fit!