[Tamara]

This is so interesting! I’m loving reading this post and finding out all these little dilemmas we are facing whilst fitting our girls in this dress. I sorted out my problem and the muslin tells me I’m ready to go but I can relate and do understand how impossible and time delaying it feels to come across a fitting issue.

Can’t wait to read the blog post and gain a few more ideas.

[with love Heidi]

What about doing a slash and add to the centre front seam. This involves cutting up the centre front seam and spreading the muslin, until the side seams are perpendicular (at right angles) to the floor and then basting in that much extra fabric (muslin) while she is still wearing it. Then using this piece as the new front bodice piece remake the muslin to check fit and continue to adjust. This may be difficult on a wiggly toddler, although she seems to be doing very well.

I suppose another way to do it (I think this is the pivot) I would measure her and the pattern and work out the difference. Then using a traced copy of the pattern cut it spread it out and add that much into the slashes.

You may find the front pattern piece looks like it has a curve to the bottom, especially if it fits like a maternity pattern.

You are working so hard at this and it sounds like it will be lovely once finished and once you have worked out the proper alteration you can apply it to other patterns so they fit better.

[cybele727]

Mommy2Maria,

I have just started my muslin, and boy it is killing me. I am wondering how you are doing. The first one I cut, I did a 3T but graduated from armpit to bottom to a 4T, I sewed with darts. The neckline was choking her and it wasn’t wide enough across the chest or back even though she is measuring 18 mo in the chest to even “close” at the back.

Also the arm holes were too small.

So…. She has a really long torso, so I cut a 4T, with a 3T neckline b/c she was choking on the neckline to accommodate for the neckline. I also sewed in the 5/8 line and pressed so I would have an idea of the back fitting with the zipper. I did not sew the darts.

So what did I get? I got a back that fits (she has a small small of the back), but it is a bit tight across the belly. Also the bodice ends about 2 inches above the belly button. The good of that? Most of her belly is below the belly button, so it would be accommodated in the gathers of the skirt.

But is it supposed to end that high?

Where is the “natural waist” of a toddler???

How are you doing? How are you solving your problems?

[Jess M.]

To be honest, I haven’t picked it back up. I’ve been a bit busy making some gifts, and haven’t had a chance to take a second look at it, or use some of the methods here!

I’m hoping to be able to re-read the comments and get back to this in the next day or two! I’m so (sew?) itchy to make this dress! I have some super soft sateen that is going to be so pretty!

I’m thinking that the natural waist on a toddler is sorta right where their jeans fit—at/above belly button in front and small of back in the back.

[cybele727]

Thanks. Me too. I think it needs to be longer than above her belly button.

I do have an idea. This am, I dressed my daughter in her music box dress and inspiration struck! I was looking at the bodice and thinking, ok for a fitted dress, if I lengthened the bodice 5 inches and take in the sides a touch from the size I made, it might work! I know the arm holes are big enough, and it fits across the chest correctly. The neckline won’t choke her.

I would have to add the collar and sleeves to the muslin bodice to check for compatibility, but lengthening it might be the trick. (or just laying the patterns atop one another to compare neck lines. The armhole question becomes is a size 3T arm hole in the music box the same size as a 3T in the fairy tale?) The other major adjustment is that the fairytale only has 5/8 inch allowance in the zipper area. The music box may have more because it overlaps due to the buttons.

After all, most bodice patterns are pattern blanks with minor adjustments.

Jenny

If this doesn’t work when I make a muslin, I am giving up for now and using my fabric to make a family reunion dress in the silk I bought for her turkey day/Christmas/birthday/new years dress. 🙂

[catherinel]

Cybele,

That’s a good thought, but I’m not sure that the collar and sleeves would work. I do not have the fairy tale, but I have made the music box. The music box is a jumper (that’s what we call it in the American South–I know we have an international group here), which almost always has a bigger neckline and armholes to accommodate a shirt underneath it in a winter version, or just to have a looser cooler fit for a summer version. The fairy tale is a very fitted bodice dress and thus probably has a higher neckline and closer-fitting armholes.

If the music box neck works, you could probably easily redraft a peter pan collar to work with it. However, the sleeves may be more of a challenge. In the past I’ve combined patterns like this by overlaying one on top of the other. You could line up the center front and shoulder line and use the neckline from the music box and the armhole from the fairy tale.

[aegean17]

hi Jenny, I tried modifying the mbj similar to the way you are thinking. it’s really cute but I think the back is boxy even with the tapering. if I were to do it again I would take out the excess fabric below the shoulder blades. I wonder if it might be a dilly of a time trying to transfer the collar and sleeves

I really hope you can figure out the fairy tale dress! 🙂 maybe wait for the blog post re alterations??

[cybele727]

Catherinel- that is why I would overlay the patterns to compare armholes and neck lines. And do the sleeves and collar for the muslin… way before I would ever try it on the silk. To see if it would work.

Aegean17

I can see exactly what you mean about the back being boxy. I might have to do back darts but no front ones. And it very well may be a dilly to transfer the collar and sleeves. But I am not sure what else to do. I cut a 4T, even though she is measuring 4T in the belly and 2T everywhere else. As it is with the 4T, there is not enough fabric for her belly and it is way too short.

I could lengthen the 4T fairy tale. It is another option. But then I still have to deal with the neckline being too high and add another inch to the back closer side to create enough to “close” the garment– so I will be fiddling with the neck line in the back if I have to add to it Same with the front. If I have to widen it to accommodate the baby belly, I will need to fiddle with the neck line. 🙁

So, no matter how I see it, I am doing a ton of fiddling. Although if I make like 10 different muslin bodices and keep track of what I did for each one, until I happen upon the perfect one, I will sure be teaching myself a ton about alterations. And I will take pics and keep track. I don’t write a blog, but I would guest post for someone if they wanted to share their space with my fumbles and bumbles!!

I am bummed b/c she isn’t even 3 yet so the idea that I bought a pattern that goes to 4 doesn’t even work for her makes it kind of a waste, you know??

Jenny

[Tamara]

Don’t lose heart Jenny. If it is any consolation my daughter was a size three at that age in the waist region and wore size six clothing by the time she was four. They do thin out eventually and you will be able to use the pattern, just with alterations that’s all. Think of it this way, you learn some new tricks in pattern manipulation so that when she is a teenage with shapeliness, you’ll be an expert in fitting her!

[Liesl Gibson]

Bear with me, ladies! I spent the day working on some tutorials that will be up before the end of the week. We’ll have you working confidently in no time!

Meanwhile, I have a question for you all. I use carbon transfer paper and a tracing wheel when making a muslin, and I’m wondering how many of you already have these tools? Do you want us to carry them? If we have enough interest I’ll be happy to add them to our website. I’m still trying to find a wholesale source for the carbon paper. So far it’s eluded me!

[Tamara]

Hi Liesl,

This sound like something I’d certainly like to see. I can find tracing wheels but carbon paper? The sales ladies look at me as if I’m from another planet!! I can’t believe it is so hard to find. So if you are able to find a wholesale source and decide to stock this, I’ll be able to personally show the sales ladies what I’m talking about and be able to do muslins as well.

Love this idea!

Tamara

[cybele727]

I have a tracing wheel. I use this paper that came in a kit. Is it carbon? I don’t know.

[Nicole]

Carbon paper is next to impossible to buy here.

I am lucky the local postie gives me all her loose sheets from her receipt books.

I have a wonder old wooden press wheel and I use it a lot!

I would love you to stock carbon paper.

~Nicole~

[with love Heidi]

Cybel, did you rember to remove the seaqm allowances (or at least take them into account) when you made your muslin , because this could be the cause of the dress ‘chocking’ her and the armholes being too small.

I think the ‘natural waist’ is often higher than we think, espically given that so many of RTW clothes have been sutting on the hips. Maybe a way to think about the natural waist is where do all the trendy new ‘high waisted’ pants sit? I’m fairly sure they sit on the natural waist.

[cybele727]

Heidi,

I have been thinking about that. The arms are way too tiny even taking into account the seam allowances. The neck is more than 1/2 inch too close. It is a solid 3/4 inch to 1 inch. I think cutting a 3t neck solves the neck issue. It is tiny scoop. The arms on 4t are good. It is the belly and back that I need to solve.

🙂

Jenny