Oliver + S

Fairy Tale Sizing of Bodice? HELP!

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 55 total)
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    cybele727 @cybele727

    Hi,

    I know that this is where the muslim bodice will be very helpful, but I want to know what everyone’s experience is with the sizing, specifically the darts.

    I have measured my daughter, and she is all over the charts in sizing. Since the bodice is the fitted part, I know that is more important.

    Here is what I have for my daughter who is almost 3:

    Chest sized: 18 mo.

    Waist sized: 4 years.

    Height: 35 inches (2T)

    Weight 29 lbs. (2T)

    She is rather petite except for a wee paunch in her belly. The last dollop of baby fat. 🙁

    The difference between a 2T and a 4T being only a 1/2 inch in the waist.

    Now the bodice has darts to create some shape. How does that work? Is it for shape and the quality of the fit, or is this for style, and my darts can be less deep to accomodate the paunch?

    I am trying to figure out what size pattern to start with? If I cut the 4T because of her waist, it will be beyond huge in the shoulders and chest. Requiring MASSIVE adjustments of inches.

    How much are the darts for fitting vs style? Can I cut a 3T or even a 2T because while fitted it isn’t THAT fitted and there is enough room for her wee paunch?

    Thanks for your help.

    Jenny

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    Jess M. @mommy2maria

    It is HIGHLY recommended to make a bodice muslinI would start with a 4T and work my way down if I needed

    I’m actually about to work on my bodice right now. I’ve traced 5T and 4T….and I’m starting with the Size 5 to see how it works.

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    Tamara @justsewit

    I had a few issues with my daughter’s bodice also where she was bigger at the waist. I knew this by her measurements but made the first muslin as per the pattern to see where exactly the alternations needed to take place. I had issues with the back mainly and so as suggested by the wonderful ladies on this forum, I did a pivot alternation.

    Basically you place the pattern down on the tracing paper as if you would be tracing it and draw around the parts that are fine. Then you take a pin and put it in the corner that meets the seam allowance (I did mine at the top of the side seam) and you pivot the pattern out 1/4 of the measurement that needs to be added and redraw the pattern part in that position.

    I did mine just at the back so just added what I needed to incorporate redoing the dart which was 1.5 inches.

    If you google Colette’s handbook pivot alternation you will find photo and video tutorials on how to do this.

    I think I also heard (read) that Leisl made the smaller sizes without the darts so if you do the size that fits her chest/ shoulders and extend the waist out using the pivot technique you should get a bodice that fits without having to do hugely massive alterations.

    Hope this helps

    Tamara

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    with love Heidi @with love Heidi

    I would probably do it a little differently. I would trace the size 18m shoulders, armholes and neckline and then taper the pattern to a size 4 at the waist. Although is there’s only 1/2″ difference in the waist it might be worth just makingthe straight 2T, but lengthening the bodice and skirt it out to a size 4, to allow for her height.

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    Thanks. I will google the pivot thinner! If it makes sense I will try it. If not, I may try Heidi’s idea. :). Will let you know what I used and how it came out. 🙂

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    I’d actually suggest skipping the darts if she has a little belly. If you leave them unsewn you’ll have more room in the waist and it won’t affect the rest of the pattern at all. Try it with the muslin and see what happens.

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    Thanks! That may be easiest. :). And coming from you I know skipping darts won’t affect the garment structure. 🙂

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    Jess M. @mommy2maria

    (cybele, I hope you don’t mind me asking questions here too!)

    Liesl,

    Ok, I’m having the same issue, and I just fitted Maria with the size 5 bodice and left out the darts. It fits the belly perfectly, but there is a bulk of fabric forming a V shape from her arm pits to the center front—almost like it needs a different dart. Any suggestions?

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    Oh I don’t mind at all. After all, I am likely to experience the same problems by leaving out the darts! 🙂 I will likely cut a 3T muslim tonight to fit for tomorrow. So, I am happy to hear any suggestions! 🙂

    Jenny

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Can you post a photo? I’d like to see where the folds are going so I can give a good answer.

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    with love Heidi @with love Heidi

    mommy2maria, how do the arm holes fit? will they gape?

    I’m wondering if you need to go down one size for the upper bodice and keep the lower bodice as a size 5.

    Or try and pin out the fabric to create extra drats where your daughter seems to need them.

    Good luck.

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    Jess M. @mommy2maria

    The arm holes fit perfectly…other than being slightly wide at the shoulder caps….but not anything that seam allowance for sleeves wont take care of. Just quick fitting….it feels llike if I go down a size for the top it will create an odd table on her belly…which already protrudes weird. 🙂 plus the 5 actually gives her room in the shoulders to move. I could make up a 4 to try on though. But this is for a costume (Alice) so it will be covered with a pinnafore anyway. But I’d like to try and get this right for future dresses.

    Here is a pic. I did try to pin the excess fabric….which is what made me feel like it could use an alternate dart. Maybe one from nipple to hip (um bust to waist? I’m not sure what it is called LOL). http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb181/jmaatta/20120926_124851.jpg

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    Jess M. @mommy2maria

    Also I don’t expect this to be 100% form fitting but I don’t want it loose like it is currently..does that make sense?

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    Ooh nice photo! I see the problem. Hmmm… It looks like it is too wide across the center/shoulders, yet you need the width for the wee Buddha belly. I very much anticipate having the same problem.

    I am thinking of cutting a 3t and then from the armpit line down/side seam the size 4t. The 3t I don’t think will be too big even though her chest is an 18mo, because the major difference in looking at the pattern is height, and she is a bit below average but long torso-ed

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    Then the width of the 4t which I can grade to narrower under the arms to (nom nom) Buddha belly width! That is my hope. :).

    Now I must wait for printer ink to print my pattern. <digital drawback>.

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