[Addie]

I bought my dupioni silk bridesmaid dress fabrics (in person but you can buy swatches) from here: https://www.thaisilks.com

[Addie]

For your must have’s: one step buttonhole feature, needle down position, ability to lower feed dogs AND your price point and more… I have to recommend my sewing machine. It’s the Janome DC4030 (I have the pink ribbon edition that is no longer available but it is VERY similar to the standard DC4030). I bought it from a Janome dealer who told me the differences for what I wanted it to do (mainly garment sewing, some bags and home dec, no fancy stitches) and they said that the motor in this machine is extremely sturdy (which is the number ONE most important feature on any machine for overall ability and longevity). Also I was told that it can sew even belt leather with no problem. I have not sewn leather but I have sewn wool, rayon, knit, denim, as well as usual cotton & linen etc. All the fabrics are handled beautifully by the machine. I LOVE my one step button hole feature, so easy! Also, there are multiple needle positions, easy length/width change buttons, needle up/down (manual and auto), as well as the option to use the start/stop button rather than the foot pedal which I have come to love. The feed dogs can be lowered. I don’t remember the maximum speed but honestly it is usually faster than I want to go so I have never felt it slow, even the overcast stitch is not too slow. It also works with a multitude of specialty feet…I have been sewing on this machine for about five years and I still love it now as much as the day I got it. A great value for the quality!

[Addie]

I made the Gallery dress with short sleeves. Here is a picture.

[Addie]

@with_love_Heidi Thanks, I was close to giving up on this one but once I sacrificed the sleeve going in perfectly it was going to work.

@sarvi Thank you.

@lightningmcstitch Thank you.

I am wearing the top today so maybe I can get a better photo.

[Addie]

I completely forgot to post pictures of this completed outfit. I actually did not get a full length photo at my husband’s graduation…but I got one in July when I wore the outfit on my birthday. I know it is an unusual combination of fabrics that is not to everyone’s taste but I like it and have received compliments whenever I wear it. Here is the photo from the Flickr group:https://flic.kr/p/Mwqoh7

[Addie]

While I am not entirely confidant about the route I took to get here, I do believe I will be able to repeat the sewing process for my customized maritime top with relative success. I attached a quick photo of the finished garment here. The bottom hem stretched a bit but overall it fits well and I do like how the darts shape the front. I lowered the front neckline some to give a nicer line, since the full width of the original boat neck is too wide for my shoulders. Thanks to @liesl and everyone for the tips.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5tw_UI_bq66Rm5JZmcxMnk3cWs/view?usp=drivesdk

• This reply was modified 7 years ago by Addie.

[Addie]

@sarvi Thank you for your feedback also. Do you have an available photo of your maritime with the FBA? I was looking on the Flickr group and having a hard time finding any with the bust dart.

I am completely aware of the dropped shoulder in the design of the pattern (I have worn this style in RTW clothing) but because my shoulders are somewhat narrow in relation to my full bust, the same size at the shoulder and front just doesn’t work on me. The shoulder seam ends up being way further down my arm than even a dropped shoulder style should be.

It’s possible this style is good only for those people with wider than average shoulders.

[Addie]

Links to the photos of my adjusted front pattern piece:https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5tw_UI_bq66dU0zT19EMGZieHc/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5tw_UI_bq66MjA3MGVkVGRjWTQ/view?usp=drivesdk

[Addie]

@liesl Thank you, I greatly appreciate your attempts at helping me figure this out. Unfortunately the arm hole is affected by the FBA, although it is not shown to do so in the figures on your pattern. I have done FBA adjustments before (on your Lisette patterns for example) and the top of the side edge angles when the pattern pieces are spread, so then you have to “true up” (I think that is the term?) the side edge. I attached two more photos of my front pattern piece, one with a gauge showing that nearly 1/2″ has been added to the armhole at the side. I am aware of the dropped shoulder style but the size 12 is too dropped for my narrow shoulders, the 4 looks much better (as shown in my first photos). So I am still trying to figure out how to transition/combine the size 12 with FBA and the size 4 at the shoulder.

[Addie]

@liesl Well, yes it is complicated and I am pretty disappointed by this pattern. I really wanted it to be a staple piece I could make over and over for my wardrobe. But it is much harder to make work than it seems it should be. I already spent two classes with a sewing instructor making the first two muslins. She is as baffled as I am as to how to get this pattern to fit well.

I will try and explain again: The front piece is a size 12 and has a FBA which adds and additional 3/4″ to the width of that piece. On the pictures you have, whole upper portion: armhole, sleeve and neckline I cut in a 4. But then — you can’t see this because it is under the arm — the armhole was larger than the sleeve because of the extra on the sides because of the larger size and FBA of the front. Also the size 4 sleeve was a little tight. So I increased the size of the sleeve to 14 (looking to match the armhole and sleeve cap) but there is still a difference between them, the armhole is larger than the sleeve cap. Does that make sense?

• This reply was modified 7 years ago by Addie.

[Addie]

@liesl Thank you for the advice. I tried a slightly larger sleeve because the armhole is still larger than the sleeve and the contrast between the two seems uneven when it is worn. I am also adding back 1/2″ of the 1″ that I took out of the center back which should give the fit a little bit more ease and will widen the neckline some. Any suggestions for transitioning from the bottom of the armhole to the side seam since they are different sizes? Thanks again.

[Addie]

@mama_knowles Thank you for the feedback. My shoulders are somewhat narrow so I am okay with the neckline being less wide, before it was showing my bra.

[Addie]

Trying again on the photos: front: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5tw_UI_bq66SG12WlhZOFE5ZGM/view?usp=drivesdk

Side: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5tw_UI_bq66azZzR2dHaV9jS2s/view?usp=drivesdk

[Addie]

Here are two pictures of my third muslin where I cut the neckline, armhole, and sleeve in a size 4 and the rest in a 12 with a FBA. It’s just based and I forgot to add to the sleeve to transition to the size 12 so that part is stretched/wonky. But it seems to be fitting better overall but i am not completely sure. This fabric is less stretchy than the last muslin but closer to my real fabric. Liesl do you have further advice now that you can see it?

• This reply was modified 7 years ago by Addie.

[Addie]

Thank you @motherof5, @liesl and @justsewit! I would definitely be interested in a blog post including this topic Liesl.

I have started: I cut out the skirt in the print fabric and will get sewing it today. I plan to try come color blocking on the top by using the print for only the front-side panels with the rest of the top pieces solid. (At least that’s the plan until I have the fabrics and pattern pieces in front of me.)

I really like the idea of bringing the print up to the top to lengthen the whole line of the look, to reduce any possible boxy-blocky issues, and to make it more of an ensemble rather than coordinating separates (not usually a look I go for but in this case it could be really fun). I am just waiting for the solid fabric to arrive in the mail any day to get started on the top. I will follow up with photos in the flickr group when it’s all done.