Oliver + S

Fit issues: on my 3rd muslin, help!

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
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    Profile photo of AddieAddie @lotuspeachblog

    Although I am hoping this third muslin fixes things, I thought it might help to get some comments from people who have sewn this pattern successfully. I have done a FBA, and after raising and angling the darts extra, that area seems to be okay. But the shoulder/arm/neckline has been a huge problem: the shoulder is cut far too wide, dropping almost 2″ off my shoulder, and even after cutting it down, there was too much fabric around the sleeve attachment area and the neckline was so wide (seems weighed down by the sleeve) my bra strap is showing. The back bags a lot too. So I am trying cutting an inch out of the center back as well as cutting the top portion of the pattern in a size 4, going to my customized 12, from the bottom of the arm opening, sleeve also in a 4 as it was quite baggy as well. I have never had to change a pattern so much or had such fitting issues. If this one doesn’t work I am about ready to give up on it entirely. Can anyone give me advice? FYI…I am using a knit similar to the fabric that I am planning to use: a fairly light cotton jersey.

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    Profile photo of Liesl GibsonLiesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Hi @lotuspeachblog. Sorry to hear that you’re having trouble! Without seeing photos or knowing the type of jersey (the amount of stretch, especially), it’s difficult to say what’s happening with your muslin. This style is designed to have a dropped shoulder–the sleeve seam sits further down on the shoulder/upper arm. Is that what’s throwing you? From what you’re describing (too wide across the back, neckline too wide, etc.), it sounds like the size may be too large. Are you maybe looking for more of a classic T-shirt style? This pattern is a dropped-shoulder, relaxed Breton-style top. The sleeve is also relaxed, so it won’t fit like a basic T-shirt. I hope that helps?

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    Profile photo of AddieAddie @lotuspeachblog

    Here are two pictures of my third muslin where I cut the neckline, armhole, and sleeve in a size 4 and the rest in a 12 with a FBA. It’s just based and I forgot to add to the sleeve to transition to the size 12 so that part is stretched/wonky. But it seems to be fitting better overall but i am not completely sure. This fabric is less stretchy than the last muslin but closer to my real fabric. Liesl do you have further advice now that you can see it?

    • This reply was modified 5 months ago by Profile photo of Addie Addie.
    LINK
    Profile photo of AddieAddie @lotuspeachblog
    LINK
    Profile photo of Mama_KnowlesMama_Knowles @Mama_Knowles

    To me the neckline is way to small for the style. Bit the rest looks to fit very nice. It should have a much wider neck opening. (As one reason why I adore this top! I wear my two all the time.)

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    Profile photo of AddieAddie @lotuspeachblog

    @mama_knowles Thank you for the feedback. My shoulders are somewhat narrow so I am okay with the neckline being less wide, before it was showing my bra.

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    Profile photo of Liesl GibsonLiesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Overall, I’d say you’re getting a pretty good fit now. I’d have to agree with @mama_knowles that I think the style looks better with a wider neck, but the beauty for sewing for yourself is that you can alter to your preferences, so if you’re happy with the narrower neckline, go with it! Otherwise, it looks as it should, so your alterations have been successful! Your fabric choice is going to effect the look of each knit you sew, and that (to me) is the big challenge of designing and sewing knits. Some qualities are more drapey and more stretchy than others, and it will make a big change in the final appearance of this top (and other designs, too). Keep in mind that this particular style is meant to be relaxed and not too fitted and I think you’re good to go!

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    Profile photo of AddieAddie @lotuspeachblog

    @liesl Thank you for the advice. I tried a slightly larger sleeve because the armhole is still larger than the sleeve and the contrast between the two seems uneven when it is worn. I am also adding back 1/2″ of the 1″ that I took out of the center back which should give the fit a little bit more ease and will widen the neckline some. Any suggestions for transitioning from the bottom of the armhole to the side seam since they are different sizes? Thanks again.

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    Profile photo of Liesl GibsonLiesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    I’m not sure I’m following your changes, @lotuspeachblog. You’re using one size sleeve, another size armhole, and a different size neckline, and still another size side-seam/width? This sounds too complicated to me!

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    Profile photo of AddieAddie @lotuspeachblog

    @liesl Well, yes it is complicated and I am pretty disappointed by this pattern. I really wanted it to be a staple piece I could make over and over for my wardrobe. But it is much harder to make work than it seems it should be. I already spent two classes with a sewing instructor making the first two muslins. She is as baffled as I am as to how to get this pattern to fit well.

    I will try and explain again: The front piece is a size 12 and has a FBA which adds and additional 3/4″ to the width of that piece. On the pictures you have, whole upper portion: armhole, sleeve and neckline I cut in a 4. But then — you can’t see this because it is under the arm — the armhole was larger than the sleeve because of the extra on the sides because of the larger size and FBA of the front. Also the size 4 sleeve was a little tight. So I increased the size of the sleeve to 14 (looking to match the armhole and sleeve cap) but there is still a difference between them, the armhole is larger than the sleeve cap. Does that make sense?

    • This reply was modified 5 months ago by Profile photo of Addie Addie.
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    Profile photo of Liesl GibsonLiesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    You sound very frustrated, @lotuspeachblog. Let me see what I can do to help now that I understand more about the situation.

    First of all, I’m going to suggest my favorite book which I think will be very useful to you: “Fit for Real People” by Pati Palmer. She covers all sorts of fit situations for every body shape, and I think you’ll find it to be incredibly valuable when you run into issues. I recommend it for all my fit workshops. It’s a wonderful reference book for virtually all fit issues.

    Next, I would recommend sticking with one pattern size for all your pattern pieces. When you start combining sizes it introduces all sorts of problems and complicates the issue. If you’re doing a FBA (as shown in the beginning of the instructions for this pattern) it won’t change the length of the armhole at all, so you can use the same size sleeve as the rest of the shirt. If you need more room in the sleeve (too tight), refer to page 169 of “Fit” for an easy fix. And again, keep in mind that this sleeve is dropped shoulder, so it’s not going to fit like a standard set-in sleeve. You can see some other finished examples of this top right here: https://oliverands.com/liesl-and-co-patterns/OLV-LC016MT.html#tab-photos

    If you want to make the neckline narrower, you can certainly refer to the smaller sizes when you re-draw it, but otherwise I think it just gets complicated to take from different sizes when you’re making alterations.

    I hope that helps! Obviously it would be easier if I could be there in person, but since that’s not possible I think these two tips should get you going in the right direction. Cheers!

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    Profile photo of SarviSarvi @Sarvi

    I’m also trying to follow what’s happening, and I think the bit that’s throwing me is the bit where doing the FBA changed the size of the sleeve opening — it shouldn’t, I don’t think? Am I misremembering? I made this in both a 10 and an 8, with and without an FBA — I found in the end that although I do a 3/4″ FBA for the Cinema Dress, I liked the fit of the Maritime better without any FBA at all — because the cut of the top is inherently less fitted, and the style ease + the give of the jersey fabric is all I needed to be comfortable.

    Have a peep at the tops done in striped fabric especially and you can see how far down the shoulder the sleeve/body seam hits — it’s more \ than | — and that is by design. I think that if you would prefer that seam to be more vertical, you’re going to find you’re fighting the pattern, and that’ll be frustrating. Can you perhaps post an inspiration pic of a shirt with a shoulder/sleeve seam you want to achieve, and we can suggest a better starting point?

    [And this last is way off topic but I also have narrow shoulders (and mine are sloping too) and I have found that a raglan sleeve is often nicer on me. That’s going in the opposite direction of the drop-shoulder, though!]

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    Profile photo of AddieAddie @lotuspeachblog

    @liesl Thank you, I greatly appreciate your attempts at helping me figure this out. Unfortunately the arm hole is affected by the FBA, although it is not shown to do so in the figures on your pattern. I have done FBA adjustments before (on your Lisette patterns for example) and the top of the side edge angles when the pattern pieces are spread, so then you have to “true up” (I think that is the term?) the side edge. I attached two more photos of my front pattern piece, one with a gauge showing that nearly 1/2″ has been added to the armhole at the side. I am aware of the dropped shoulder style but the size 12 is too dropped for my narrow shoulders, the 4 looks much better (as shown in my first photos). So I am still trying to figure out how to transition/combine the size 12 with FBA and the size 4 at the shoulder.

    LINK
    Profile photo of AddieAddie @lotuspeachblog
    LINK
    Profile photo of AddieAddie @lotuspeachblog

    @sarvi Thank you for your feedback also. Do you have an available photo of your maritime with the FBA? I was looking on the Flickr group and having a hard time finding any with the bust dart.

    I am completely aware of the dropped shoulder in the design of the pattern (I have worn this style in RTW clothing) but because my shoulders are somewhat narrow in relation to my full bust, the same size at the shoulder and front just doesn’t work on me. The shoulder seam ends up being way further down my arm than even a dropped shoulder style should be.

    It’s possible this style is good only for those people with wider than average shoulders.

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