Oliver + S

starting on the trench coat – pondering fabric choices

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 27 total)
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    EllenMCM @EllenMCM

    This pattern unexpectedly showed up in the mail today. I put it on my birthday list – I think it was meant to be a present. I will be polling my family to find out who it’s from. You know. When I take a break from actually making the coat.

    I traced it tonight. I’m going to choose fabric tomorrow. I was considering a coated cotton, but I think that might complicate the project more than I want too – I’ve never made a coat before, and I will be happy with one that works as an extra layer even if it’s not waterproof. I think I probably have a lot of color options in twill, and I might be able to find something fun in a home dec fabric. Mostly, I’m just too excited not to share. Any advice for an inexperienced coat-maker?

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    Tamara @justsewit

    Hi Ellen

    Glad to know that someone thought to get you the trench coat pattern for your birthday, really nice present to get.

    What style are you planning to make? I haven’t made this yet but do plan to just as soon as my new sewing area is fully functional. Twill would be a good option start with as if you have worked with it before you shouldn’t have any dramas. This would simple enough to make one as an extra layer type coat and will allow you to build your confidence with coat making. Coated cotton is like laminated cotton isn’t it? I haven’t worked with that fabric before so I can’t lend any advice there only that I am certain that it would look great as a trench raincoat.

    I say go with your gut on fabric choices. If you are imagining the pattern in a particular way why not try it out? It is part of the fun of sewing is to experiment with fabrics, prints and colour.

    Just have fun making your first coat. It can seem daunting but really you will wonder why after you’ve made it. Can’t wait to see what you use and how it turns out.

    Tamara

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    Nicole @motherof5

    I have made the 12 and it is a dream to sew!

    I didn’t bind the seams as I was pushed for time but it still looks fabulous.

    We have been in the City for the weekend and I noticed trench coats everywhere in a myriad of strong jewel colours as well as the classic black,tan and winter white.

    I used a stretch drill(twill) and it was great to handle,hopefully I will finish two more this week for an upcoming wedding-both. I am using some curtain fabric. One a heavy winter white linen mix,the other a charcoal cotton mix with a silk look finish.

    I think this jacket could be a really playful piece in a child’s wardrobe and see no reason to stick to coat fabric as such.

    The instructions are very good when you have finished you will see what I mean!

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    Jennifer1568 @Jennifer1568

    I have been thinking about the same thing. I want to make a rain coat that is sort of waterproof not out of laminated cotton. I have coat that is made out of really light weight cotton and it is smooth, sort of silky. It is has been treated so that it is sort of waterproof. It is summer weight. It is the type of thing that was bought at an outdoor store for hiking. I would like to make a coat out of something like that. I don’t know where to look for raincoat fabric. I made the School Days Jacket using decorator cotton. It is really cute but the texture is sort of coarse. I want to have a different texture for the trench coat. Does anyone know where a selection of treated cotton that is water resistant can be found?

    If I don’t have any other options, I am going to use twill,either white or khaki. I love the coat you made, Motherof5. I love the white with the black buttons. Did you use a straight stitch and pointy needle when you sewed the stretch twill? I like the black stretch twill Sketchbook Pants that you made for your daughter, too. The stretch twill gives both the coat and the pants a good fit.

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    with love Heidi @with love Heidi

    I’m planning on making the coat (when I get the pattern for my birthday too). I have picked up some camel, charchol and navy drill at the op shops over the last few weeks. I am considering lining the coats in polar fleece as winter has just kicked in here. Any thoughts? will I need to go up a size?

    Nicole did the coat run large? There seems to be a lot of ease according to the pattern measurements.

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    Nicole @motherof5

    Jennifer,I used a universal but what a great idea to use a ball point!-Thanks,I will give that a try!

    Thank you for your compliments.

    I don’t think that it ran large as such Heidi,it is designed to go over layers and sized accordingly. Hugo is nearly 15 and he can wear it over a fitted tee made in the stretch drill but it would be too firm in a rigid fabric.

    I would wonder about sizing up if you were lining with fleece and perhaps consider a slippery fabric in the sleeves? A flannelette backed satin(like the pj’s)would still give you warmth.

    You will love sewing this coat-I promise!

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    with love Heidi @with love Heidi

    Thanks Nicole,

    I think seeing Hugo in it threw me off a bit, as I thought you mentioned elsewhere that he was pretty much out of the sizing, but if it’s designed to go over other clothes (including jumpers) and his is strech material and only over a tshirt that now makes sense.

    I don’t think I’ve seen flannelette backed satin (but then spotlight is the only store avaliable) but it sounds lovley ( and I think the kids would love it). Is the slippery fabric because the arms are narrow or is there another reason I haven’t thought of?

    thanks for your prompt responses. Looking forward to seeing the new coats.

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    Nicole @motherof5

    Sorry if I confused you Heidi,I loved the Secret Agent trench so much I was determined to make Hugo at least one!

    The arms are neat fit,not tight but not baggy,if they were lined with fleece I would wonder if they may be a bit ‘grabby’ and make the coat a little trickier to get on and off.

    I know several girls have done this with the School Days coat too.

    Spotlight has had the flannel backed satin in the past. If I see it I will definitely post a link.

    One coat drafted and cut and now we are deciding what to do with the other one.

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    thrillhouse @thrillhouse

    Has anyone made this in a wool blend? I bought some really nice grey 80% wool, 20 nylon today, it’s almost like melton wool but not as thick. Thoughts?

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    Jess M. @mommy2maria

    Jennifer—this is sort of a weird suggestion (maybe? maybe not?) but what about PUL fabric? A lot of cloth diapering mama’s who sew their own diapers use it. I was at a fabric store that had a selection and it’s got a decent drape and waterproof….but not laminated. It’s not quite the fabric you are talking about (I know what you mentioned but I don’t know exactly what it’s called!)…..but that might be something to look into?

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    thrillhouse @thrillhouse

    PUL is laminated, on the wrong side. I’ve made the School Days coat in PUL, works great as a rain coat. When I was pressing the seams, the laminated heat bonded together making a nice seal.

    A walking foot is essential, as the PUL is sticky on one side and slippy on the other.

    This one is mine. http://www.flickr.com/photos/53671599@N08/4955474020/

    I would think the Trench would work well in PUL.

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    Jess M. @mommy2maria

    Thanks for that info! It’s very different feeling from the designer laminates….that’s what I was thinking when I posted. I love the brainstorming in this thread! And your school days in PUL is fabulous! I might need a secret agent in laminate and PUL! Two totally different looks.

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    Nicole @motherof5

    Thrillhouse,a wool would be lovely but you may want to consider grading the facing seams?

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    Jennifer1568 @Jennifer1568

    I was looking at Flicker yesterday and found a blog about sewing a raincoat. It is Beachmom’s. Here’s the link: http://siestasandsewing.blogspot.com/2012/01/my-last-pr-sewalong-at-home-entry.html Two sources for fabric are listed: http://www.therainshed.com/ and http://www.dotsnstripes.co.uk/category_open.cfm?id=187&menu1=186&menu2=0. She explains that she used 2 ply taslan. I don’t even know what that is.

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    Jess M. @mommy2maria

    I had never heard of taslan either so I had to Google. Looks like its that lightweight silky material used in Tracksuits and windbreakers and umbrellas. Its water repellant but not resistant?(the resistant part may or may not be the case)

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