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That looks like it will be a very nice fabric for this pattern! I would say the underlining is completely your choice based on your fabric. If you’re concerned that the fabric isn’t substantial enough for this pattern I’d say go for it. In general, I tend to skip it and instead allow the fabric to drape. This coat is designed to be somewhat…[Read more]

Hi @jlrobinson1220gmail-com Joan,
The best way to work out what size a finished garment will be us to draw the stitching line on your pattern piece.
The crown circumference measurement will be taken at the opposite end to where you’ve marked.
Draw a line 1/2″ in from that longer curved edge. Stop the line 1/2″ from each end
The length of that…[Read more]

here is the picture of the pattern piece side

Back again. My apologies but not understanding how to post correctly. I am still pursuing the Saint Germaine with a muslin #4. I have these questions:
If I am starting from a size to fit my upper bust measurement and grading to larger size for waist and hips ( say size 6 D cup going to a 12 for waist and hips) and doing a full arm adjustment to…[Read more]

Thank you SO much for the advice and encouragement, Lyndsey,!

You are doing great!!! Fit is a process. It gets exhausting but it is so worth it.
As for the arms, I have VERY full biceps. I have a really hard time with fitted sleeves, but the other sleeve for this pattern I was able to use with ZERO adjustments. Maybe try it out?
As for the waist, at least the way I fit it, my natural waist hits at the…[Read more]

I took the easy way out and just sewed the pattern as it was drafted! It turned out great 🙂

Back again! I am now struggling with the fitted sleeve. Again, any advice gratefully received. My upper arms are heavy. I tried to account for this by sizing up in the arm and in the under arm seam allowance. I also adjusted the arm hole opening as suggested for the forward shoulder. This helped but there is still a pull when I raise my arm.…[Read more]

Thanks so much for your help. I actually allowed more while cutting but marked it where it should be. Moving on to the next step.

I agree that the second muslin is just not hitting it. What about altering the pattern piece to lower the neckline so it hits below the bust? That would be relatively easy, I think.

It’s looking good to me! The bodice is definitely too long in the back, and maybe a little long in the front as well? But I think you’re on the right track.