Oliver + S

Underlining?

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    Profile photo of MelMel @Mel

    I bought some super cute polka dot stretch twill that I would like to use for a secret agent trench for my daughter. I’ve made this pattern twice before — once in a ponte knit and once in a lightweight suiting. The knit was very popular but my daughter said the suiting one was too cold. I don’t think it was too lightweight but it wasn’t cozy enough (she would usually wear a trench over a short sleeved shirt if it was cold enough to need an extra layer but not cold enough for fleece).

    So . . . I’m thinking of underlining the next one in light flannel. I’m making view B so thinking I’d maybe just line the bodice and the sleeves not the gathered skirt.

    Is underlining a stretch fabric with a non-stretch fabric a bad idea? I’ve never underlined something before but I’ve taken a look at a couple of tutorials (like this one: http://seamstresserin.com/how-to-underline-sewaholics-robson-trench-coat/
    which shows how to underline the Robson Trench coat). Is there any reason why it might not work for the secret agent?

    • This topic was modified 1 year ago by Profile photo of Mel Mel.
    LINK
    Profile photo of NicoleNicole @motherof5

    I lined a Secret Agent trench very successfully and it had a lot more wear then the unlined versions.
    I touch on it in this post http://fiveandcounting-motherof5.blogspot.com.au/2013/03/elsas-turn-again-lining-unlined-blazer.html
    It is not a ‘proper’ method, but it worked well and the jacket has been handed down and still getting a lot of wear.
    My children couldn’t wrap their heads around a unlined jacket, I told them to think of it as an over-shirt but unless I suggested it they didn’t seem to pull it out the wardrobe.

    I will go and have a look at your link, back soon 🙂

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    Profile photo of MelMel @Mel

    I took a peek at your post, Nicole. Lovely jacket, I can see why it had lots of wear!

    I don’t think I want to line it per se because I would like to use flannel and I’m not sure how that would work for a lining. Might be too “sticky”? I thought if I underlined it, it would up the cozy factor but wouldn’t be too bulky. I’m just talking off the top of my head, though, I really don’t have a clue. That’s why I come here 😉

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    Profile photo of NicoleNicole @motherof5

    Wow, that is a lot of work but looks amazing! I am sure that would work.

    I am not a fan of binding seams (I love the look just find it a bit tedious) I would wonder about flannel for the main and something silky for the sleeves?

    But I am sure the underlining would work really well.

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    Profile photo of ReeniReeni @Reeni

    I don’t have this pattern, I have the School Days coat though and it works excellently lined… Screaming orange raincoat

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    Profile photo of MelMel @Mel

    yes, it does look like a lot of work. I thought initially it might be more functional but I’ll have to ponder it for a bit. With about 4 feet of snow still on the ground, spring jackets are a distant dream for now anyway!!

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    Profile photo of melelizameleliza @meleliza

    Do you mean underlining with flannel and then lining with something slippery? Or do you just mean underlining with flannel and no additonal lining? Because that will have the same sticky effect as lining, but you’ll also have lots of messy seams showing. You could line the body in flannel for warmth and the sleeves in slippery fabric so it can go on and off.

    I’m not sure this pattern was drafted for all those extra layers and you may run into problems if it wasn’t.

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    Profile photo of SarviSarvi @Sarvi

    I think what’s in that tutorial is effectively a lining, though I get why she’s calling it underlining, as the seams are still exposed. If you did that with flannel, it would be, as you suggest, ‘grabby’. Wonderfully cozy, certainly!

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    Profile photo of MelMel @Mel

    I don’t want to add a slippery lining because she’s likely going to wear it over a t-shirt or short sleeved shirt so I don’t want anything that would feel “cool” to the touch. I thought if I underlined it, it would act more like a flannel jacket rather than a lined jacket so there would be less chance of the flannel getting caught on other clothes. Still pondering, though, as the winter jackets haven’t been put away yet!

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    Profile photo of with love Heidiwith love Heidi @with love Heidi

    I’ve lined the Secret Agent Trench in fleece which worked very well.

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