Oliver + S

Preventing bodice lining from rolling into view at arm and neck holes

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    BeckyinFL @BeckyinFL

    I’m making a jumper of medium-weight corduroy, and I found a nice fat quarter of what looks like a Liberty lawn that I’d like to use to line the bodice. This is the Music Box Jumper, by the way. The bodice lining is cut the same as the bodice outer fabric. I am wondering if this combination of fabric weights will cause the lining fabric to roll out at the arm and neck holes. If so, that would be glaringly obvious, because the corduroy is dark blue and the lining is a light, multi-colored print. I know I can edge stitch the lining at the lower neck to secure it there, as the pattern instructs, but there is no opportunity to do so at the other edges because of the way the bodice is constructed.

    As I see it, my options are:
    *Edge-stitch the arm and neck holes on the outside of the garment. (But I don’t think I’d like the resulting flatness there.)
    *Use piping around the armholes and neckholes. (Unnecessarily fussy for this project.)
    *Choose another lining fabric (I actually have one that is the same color as the outside fabric, so any roll would not be obvious.)
    *Trim and clip to a fare-thee-well to reduce the bulk of the corduroy seam allowances so they will not assert themselves by pulling the lining fabric out.

    Advice solicited! Thank you.

    bethasaur @bethasaur

    What about some understitching (sewing the lining to the seam allowance)? I don’t have that pattern, but it’s used in several other O&S patterns to prevent the lining from peeking out.

    Nicole @motherof5

    Generally, cord is fluffy and bulky enough that it ‘puffs’ up once sewn so it is unlikely to be a problem.

    If you are worried you can trim a bee’s whisker off your lining pieces before sewing them to the bodice but then your will have to be aware of that and take care matching side seams and notches.

    Finally, children are a moving target. The finishes we agonise over are rarely visible in motion.

    A cord pinafore sounds lovely Becky.

    meleliza @meleliza

    I think cord with a lightweight lining is perfect. If you under stitch, I don’t see how it could be a problem. I have made this in pink cord with a scrap of voile for the lining and it works nicely. I just made the dress from the new Brooklyn pattern company in cord too, again with voile scraps for lining. I under stitched the neck and it works beautifully.

    BeckyinFL @BeckyinFL

    Thank you all for your replies. I guess I needn’t have worried. I did clip and trim closely, and the lining seems to be staying on the inside of the garment with no inclination to peek outward. I didn’t under-stitch at the front neck opening (stitch the facing to the seam allowance for a little way, as the pattern instructs) because, silly me, I’d already trimmed the seam allowances too narrow. I ended up fusing a tiny strip of fusable stuff there instead, but I think it would have been okay even without that.

    Kerrilyn @Kerrilyn

    Looks good.

    BeckyinFL @BeckyinFL

    Thank you, Kerrilyn!

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