Oliver + S

Please help — how do I lengthen *only* the back rise??

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    rebecca @rebecca

    My daughter has a long torso, which poses a problem when making pants… Height-wise, she is 44″ (size 5, in O&S size chart), however her waist/hip width and leg length is a 4. So, a size 4 is right, except for the rise…

    So, because of her long torso, it makes the top-back of pants not high enough (not covering her bits). The front, however is the *perfect*! rise — oddly, her rise is only longer in the back (!?!)

    How on earth to I mash those two together??

    I’ve tried cutting the size 4 everywhere, but the size 5 height on back crotch to waistband, and size 4 in front. But then it’s really wonky to blend those two (gracefully). It creates weird sharp angles (and doesn’t lay well).

    Oh, yes, to add to that…super flat bum!! So, no extra fabric is needed back there — just height!

    (I’m nearly in tears after making her a BEAUTIFUL tailored pair of Picnic Shorts, using a size FIVE so they’d fit her back length. The back length is awesome, but the rest is awful: too high on her front waist and super balloon-y around her bum and legs.) :'(

    rebecca @rebecca

    Oh, yes — and if it’s a size 5 in front, she says “the front is too dangly!!” meaning, she pushes the waist to where it’s comfortable, which pushes the pants/shorts crotch really low down.

    If I make a size 4, front is *perfect* (and width/length!), but the back doesn’t cover the necessary bits. :/ And then she’s walking around, always trying to pull them (but, not enough fabric in the rise, to even pull them up). {NOTE: this is why I made a size 4 pair of Sailboat pants a few weeks ago, and they didn’t fit either! More tears over those, too–mine, I mean.}

    I’ve got to figure this out… and make something without crying when it’s done!

    Please? 😀 😀 😀

    Tamara @justsewit

    Hi Rebecca

    This is what I do for my daughters’ pants and also my own.

    Firstly I measure from the back centre waist to the inside of the leg where the seam would meet. You can also do this with a pair of pants that already fit her.

    Then, because you want to fit only the back not the front, I would calculate the difference between the measurement of the pattern and the measurement you gained from her body (or the fitting pair of pants).

    Then what I would do is draw a line across the back pants piece ABOVE the curvy part. Don’t cut through all the way. Just cut acrocc to the seam allowance at the side then make a little snip into the seam allowance – this is called cutting to but not through.

    Then I would take something sturdy (I use scrap paper from the printer) and mark the distance I need to add. (Just remember this pattern has a back yoke so you need to add that measurement minis seam allowances to your total rise measurement on the pattern.) then I stick the bottom part down along the marking (I rule lines to help) and then position the top part at the distance required and stick that down (sticky tape is more secure but glue will do also). The. It is just a matter of blending in the seam line to make it look even and consistent.

    Alternatively, you could add to the top of the back pattern and then blend the line back in. Both work.

    What I wouldn’t do is touch the back yoke piece. You don’t need to add to this one at all. Just make any alterations at the main part.

    I would also make a muslin just to check and if you need a little more, there is a trick you can do with regards to sewing the crotch curve. It’s confusing to think of it but if you sew a little into the pants at more than the given half inch, it somehow creates more room. The trick her is to not make it curve upwards at where back meets front.

    I hope this is helpful. I had many interruptions during writing this thanks to a rather clingy and high energy 20 month old so I hope it makes sense.


    Tamara @justsewit

    Whoops! I forgot to mention that if you did the slash and spread method, you’ll need to even out both seams as the side seam will be effected slightly.

    Good luck and please let us know how you get on.


    cybele727 @cybele727

    There is a discussion and links to pictures on how to do this!!!

    Try this:

    Pant Alteration

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