Oliver + S

Pant Alteration

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    I need some general advice. When my daughter wears RTW pants, the butt part rides too low and she’s always showing plumber’s butt. It bothers me (from an aesthetic point of view– wow that was kind of punny), and it bothers her from a comfort point of view in that she constantly pulls them up in back. But if we pull up too high, a) it puts pressure on tender girly parts and b) never stays anyway.

    I think this is b/c many pants in RTW are skinny pants.

    However, even my O& S pants ride too low in the back, although not as bad. Her rise must be really long. With my O & S patterns the lack of rise is more noticeable as a lack of “ease” when she bends.

    So, does anyone have a suggestion of how to lengthen the rise/give more in the seat in such a way that it doesn’t obstruct the pattern? It does not ride too low in the front.

    I have the after school, and the sail boat.

    Thanks for whatever advice! 🙂

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    http://www.coletterie.com/sewalongs/clover-sewalong-full-or-flat-butt-adjustments

    But that is for a full butt, and her’s isn’t big. It is long. LOL.

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    http://www.sewmamasew.com/2007/09/modifying-pants-patterns-for-babies-and-kids/

    Is it really just as easy as adding an inch to the pant top part?

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    meleliza @meleliza

    You know, my little girl has the same issue. I thought it was just on pants that are too small for her, but now I’m starting to see it everywhere. I am thinking that yeah, it should be as simple as adding a little more room in the back, whether it’s needed in length or overall fullness. Of course, I’m really not a pant expert.

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    with love Heidi @with love Heidi

    I would be tempted to add a wedge probably about 3″ below the top. I would slash the pattern from the

    centre back seam to just before the seam allowances ( I wouldn’t cut into the seam allowance associated that would change the side seam) thereby leaving a hinge at the side seam. Slip some paper underneath the cut, rotate the top of the pants away from the bottom of the pants the amount you would like to increase the rise by ( Eg. 1″) and then tape the pattern to the paper underneath and redraw the side seams. There you have a new pattern piece with extra length in the centre back but the side seams still match.

    If there’s too many words and you would like pictures let me know! 🙂

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    Oh Heidi, I may need pictures! 🙂

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    with love Heidi @with love Heidi

    Cybele, I’ll try and get some pictures up today.

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    with love Heidi @with love Heidi

    Here’s my picture http://www.flickr.com/photos/73669617@N07/12077112723/

    Sorry it took an extra couple of days to get it up. Hope it helps 🙂

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    Thanks. That is what I kind of thought! But the pic is incredibly helpful.

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    with love Heidi @with love Heidi

    Glad it’s useful. I understand about pictures I learn best from them!

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    hmmm… that picture is helpful if you aren’t doing after school pants. There is the yoke in these pants. I am trying to translate the alteration into the afterschool pieces. hmmmmm…..

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    Little_Anj @Little_Anj

    Hi ladies, thought I would chime in as I was looking for this exact thing to accommodate a cloth nappy in the sailboat pants.

    I found a quick little blog with pictures for lengthening the rise of a pattern, but the pattern still matching!!

    http://sewliberated.typepad.com/sew_liberated/2010/05/quick-change-trousers-for-the-clothdiapered-bum.html

    scroll down to the bottom and look at the last sketched picture. I saw it and thought “ah ha!! that’s just what I was looking for”.

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    with love Heidi @with love Heidi

    Cybele, I would either lengthen the bit that’s not the yoke using the picture I drew or lengthen within the yoke, using the same method. I can draw more pictures if nessassary 🙂

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    cybele727 @cybele727

    I took a pair out that I made. I laid them out, so I could see how the construction with the yoke works, since i couldn’t remember. I lengthened the pant piece instead of the yoke. We shall see. I might have to muslin it, since I don’t want to waste my Amy Butler fabric on a big mistake! 😉

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    From a technical standpoint, all of these methods would work. But I’d advise against the method shown in the last link (Sew Liberated), which could really throw off everything about the trousers. Better to raise the center-back rise!

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