Oliver + S

Neckband too long?….

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    Profile photo of Lightning McStitchLightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    I’m making a Raglan T-Short from the Field Trip pattern and the neckband looks awful once I’ve sewn it on. It attached to the neck very comfortably, there was no stretching it to fit as per the instructions. It went on almost as if it were a woven rather than a stretch. but of course then it looks dreadful and saggy.

    I’ve gone back and checked my pattern piece (size5) against the pattern and it’s correct. I checked the instruction for attaching the ends of the neckband: 1/4″ seam. Tick.

    Yet the neckband seems to be about half an inch too long in that it is the same length as the neckline and therefore doesn’t pull the neckline in at all.

    I’ve seen lots of lovely necklines on other people’s tops, so I know others are getting it right. I’ve checked and double checked the pattern piece….

    Jeez I hate the idea of unpicking that overlocker type stitch. I thought I’d try washing it and see if it springs into shape. Anyway the double needle for hemming it just broke so I’ve kinda lost enthusiasm altogether now!

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    Profile photo of TamaraTamara @justsewit

    I made a 4 for my nephew and didn’t have a problem although one did pucker slightly at the front because I didn’t apply the band evenly. I didn’t use ribbing though, just the same as the main bits.

    Sorry you are having issues!

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    Profile photo of beachmombeachmom @beachmom

    I don’t have the Field Trip pattern but I’ve sewn a lot of knit tops. Generally speaking, always make sure your neckband is shorter than the neckline. And a good blast of steam from an iron will typically shrink the neckband back up. 🙂 Good Luck!

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    Profile photo of BrittneyBrittney @georgeandizzy

    What kind of material did you use for the neckband? I usually use ribbing but once used the interlock as I needed it the same color for pictures and that was the only time I had a problem with it looking wonky. And I second Cindy’s suggestion to give it a good steam.

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    Profile photo of bren5kidsbren5kids @bren5kids

    I just made the 6-12 mo size, and my neckline looks the same way. But I will say, it looked great after I washed and dried it. But after pulling it over my baby’s head it looked all out of shape again. So I came to the conclusion that it is the fabric, it is a rib knit, but I don’t think it is technically ribbing. In other words, it doesnt have good enough recovery. So I decided if I use the same fabric again fabric for ribbing I will cut it slightly shorter.

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    Profile photo of Lightning McStitchLightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Yep, I’m using a rib knit too and it was the ironing down of the neckband seam allowance that made it seem even more out of shape. Exactly as if it’s all stretched and not recovered. Let’s blame the fabric. 🙂

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    Profile photo of BrittneyBrittney @georgeandizzy

    Sorry! I have made it loads of times in 12m, 18m, and 4 and only had a problem that once! Maybe try cutting it a little smaller next time?

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    Profile photo of NicoleNicole @motherof5

    No probs withe the size 12 in City Weekend interlock.

    Knits remain a mystery to me…..

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    Profile photo of brenda1652brenda1652 @brenda1652

    when using knits for necklines, cuffs and waistbands, try using knits that contain a bit of lycra. they hold their shape, and recover perfectly. I have noticed that the fabric designers seem to omit lycra in their knits. It would be nice to have a choice of good solid color cotton/lycra ribbing to use with nice cotton knits by the various designers. I use solid cotton/lycra ribbing from JoAnns but it isn’t as nice a quality as the designer fabrics. Chez Ami also has some jersey knits with lycra, but interestingly, their cotton rib knits do not. I have also recycled ribbing from old/outgrown tees that held their shape well. For extending the life of long sleeve baby/child tees into warm seasons I cut off the long sleeves to short sleeve length, then reapply the cuff ribbing to the short sleeves. I simply cut off the ring of ribbing close to the stitch line and reapply, no seam ripping.

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    Profile photo of Lightning McStitchLightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    I think I can now answer my own question.

    I’ve made 5 of these tops now, all using the same pattern pieces (which I double checked against the pattern) and the only one that gave me trouble was the first.

    The answer is that my neckband wasn’t too long, but my neck hole was too small! The only difference between the first and the subsequent four was that I used the sewing machine stretch stitch to sew the first top and the overlocker for all the others.

    It’s really tricky to get my sewing machine to do a 1/4″ seam using the stretch stitch and I’ve realised that if the seam is out just a tiny bit the neck hole can end up much too small. If that 1/4″ seam is sewn more like a 3/8″ seam, then 1/8″ on EACH side of the seam is taken into the seam allowance. That’s 1/4″ lost at that seam. Multiply that by the four seams around the neck and there’s one whole inch lost to bodgy seams.

    If the neck hole is 1″ smaller than it should be then of course the neckband will seem too large.

    My solution was to buy an overlocker, but another solution would be to shorten the neckband a little so that it DOES need stretching to fit the neck hole. That gaping neck one really bugs me now when I look at it!

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    Profile photo of NicoleNicole @motherof5

    Awesome, I am so pleased you sorted it!

    Seam allowance makes a difference. The collar of the Sketchbook shirt is a prime example, a few mm out here and there add up.

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