Oliver + S

Gathering stitches and seam allowance

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    Profile photo of prideandjoyprideandjoy @prideandjoy

    I’m working on the fairy tale dress now and am completely confused about the instructions for the gathering stitches for the skirt and sleeves. The pattern calls for two rows – one at 3/8 and one at 5/8″. But then the seam allowance used to sew the skirt to the bodice and the sleeves to the bodice is 1/2″. So the gathering stitches at 5/8″ show through. What am I doing wrong? I’ve read and re-read the pattern and I can’t figure it out. Thanks in advance for your help!

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    Profile photo of MelMel @Mel

    you’re reading it right! The gathering stitches are at 3/8 and 5/8 and then you sew in between them at your normal 1/2 seam allowance and then remove the visible gathering stitches after sewing the seam. Doing it this way gives you nice even gathers. Good luck with the rest 🙂

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    Profile photo of prideandjoyprideandjoy @prideandjoy

    Thanks for the replay! That’s how I read the instructions – the problem is that when I pull out the gathering stitches, the little needle punctures in the fabric remain. Is this technique meant for delicate fabrics. (I am using Liberty). How do you avoid this?

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    Profile photo of sayiamyousayiamyou @maraya

    When I sew a fine fabric like voile or lawn, I won’t use the 5/8″ gathering stitch in order to avoid the punctures. 1/4″ and 3/4″ usually works just fine for me.

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    Profile photo of NicoleNicole @motherof5

    @sayiamyou, yes, I do too.

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