Oliver + S

Finishing seams

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    claireabel @claireabel


    I’m currently sewing the Sketchbook shirt for my little boy. I’ve just set in the sleeves.

    I’m pondering a few things before I finish…

    How do you prefer to finish the seam between the sleeve and main shirt? From what I’ve found online most people seem to leave it unfinished but I am reluctant to do that (read: anal-retentive! The rest of the shirt is so neat and I want it all to be that way). I don’t want to use my overlocker so was thinking about a bound seam or Hong Kong finish. What do you think? Would this work? The fabric I’m using is a heavy-ish cotton/linen blend (85% cotton: 15% linen) so I think I would have to use a lighter weight fabric for finishing? Would love your advice or experiences.

    My other question is: do you think it would be appropriate or even possible to use a flat-felled seam to finish the shirt off? I love French seams but think my fabric is too bulky for this.

    Thanks. And sorry if these are ditzy questions, I am still a relative beginner 🙂

    Nicole @motherof5

    Hi Claire, I overlocked my side seams, pressed, stitched in one movement, from cuff seam to hem, pressed, opened to a flat seam and pressed again.

    The only garment I have bound (so far) is the brunch jacket as this gives it some body as well as a nice finish.

    What is a Hong Kong finish? and a flat-felled seam? I would love to know.

    claireabel @claireabel

    Thanks Nicole

    So you overlocked before assembling the shirt?

    A flat felled seam is like the seam you often see on jeans. I think it would suit the shirt I’m making which is fairly casual (short sleeves, pocket and standard collar).

    Have a look here: http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/flat.felled.seam.html. It appeals to me because the raw edges are concealed, but I just don’t know how well it would work on the shirt considering I have to ‘turn a corner’ with the sleeve.

    Nicole @motherof5

    I tend to overlock a lot of the pattern piece’s before the construction otherwise they are really hard to finish. I just cannot leave a raw seam!

    With the shirt , I attached the sleeve to the front&back and then sewed the side seam and sleeve side seam in one step.

    I see what you mean about ‘ turning a corner”, that would make a very fat under arm seam.

    Thanks for the link, you learn something every day!

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