Oliver + S

Fairy Tale in eyelet

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    Profile photo of CaraCara @caraskates

    Hi all,

    I am getting ready to make my 2nd Fairy Tale dress (first was a “Baby Anna” Halloween costume, seen here https://flic.kr/p/pKCL6H). This next one will be a toddler party dress, worn to a semi formal summer wedding. I plan to make view A, leaving off the belt/bow. I go back and forth on which collar I want, open to suggestions on that too!

    The fabric I’ve picked out is a pink circle eyelet from Joann’s “Doodles” collection, a pink/coral cotton and of course pink tulle. I am wondering if it makes sense to construct the dress as the instructions say (eyelet as main fabric, cotton as lining) or if I should underline the eyelet and then also line it? I don’t want it to be too heavy, this is for a July (indoor) wedding and it’s sticky here then!

    Thanks for any tips! I plan to make the same size (2T) as “Baby Anna” as that still fits and gets plenty of wear. She is a skinny just turned 3 who wears 3T in RTW. Since this is for a wedding, I want it to fit properly for the event – even if she outgrows it right after.

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    Profile photo of SarviSarvi @Sarvi

    I have not yet made it in eyelet, but I’ve made it with a lace skirt, and made the Pinwheel in eyelet and many of the same tips that apply to sheer fabrics apply here as well. The area where you want to take special care is in how you handle your seam allowances — both for the eyelet and for the lining. Normally you don’t have to go to tons of trouble to be particular about the seam allowances if they’ll be enclosed, but here it’s worth it since they’ll be more visible. You might want to consider making the bodice in a solid and just the skirt in eyelet if it looks like the curves of the neckline might look very bumpy/uneven or not fold nicely. Might be a particularly good one to use understitching to help keep everything looking tidy.

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    Profile photo of Lightning McStitchLightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    I would underline using something like cotton voile or even a single cotton gauze. Just thick enough to stop your seam allowances being visible.
    Then line in a lightweight cotton, or maybe bemsilk lining.
    Cut the skirt as one piece so you only have the centre back seam and then you could get away with not underlining the skirt, but I’d do it anyway to keep the zipper area and centre back seam nice.
    I did this with my first Fairy Tale dress and beyond all the extra cutting it doesn’t add any difficulty as such.
    Underlining in a stronger shade of the same colour would look nice, peeking through the eyelet….

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    Profile photo of NicoleNicole @motherof5
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    Profile photo of CaraCara @caraskates

    Thanks for all the suggestions! I think I will get either more of the cotton I already got for lining or another similar color lining fabric and underline the dress. I know that this will turn into an everyday “play” dress right after the wedding, that’s the stage of life this little girl is in! Because of that I want it to be sturdy and hold up to repeated washing. Nicole, I love your tutorial and version – now I’m torn about leaving off the collar/sleeves for a more sophisticated look!

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    Profile photo of cybele727cybele727 @cybele727

    I did a family reunion color block in probably the same pink circle eyelet. The challenge with any lining/underlining etc is the seam allowances being visible through the eyelet. If you are going to line the eyelet and then have the tulle and then the lining, I am going to recommend that you take and cut out the pieces in both and sew them together so that they are one double layer. Assuming solid colors, (and therefore no right/wrong sides) just sandwich them together and baste around the edges. Then your eyelet will be “solid” and the seam allowances will not be visible.

    Having made a dress with eyelet and then another layer behind, I will tell you that it adds weight, so pick the lightest weight voile or lawn you can find. In the mean time I will hunt for the picture.

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    Profile photo of cybele727cybele727 @cybele727
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    Profile photo of CaraCara @caraskates

    Thanks! Unfortunately the link didn’t work but I have the idea. 🙂

    I decided to underline the entire dress in the same thin cotton as the lining. I also decided to leave the belt and collar just out of the solid to add a bit more interest to the dress. I also found an older post on here about finishing the sleeve/armhole edge and have decided to attach the sleeves to the bodice outerlayer and then hand sew the lining to them to full enclose the seams. I’m so excited about this project!

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