2+2 blouse: choice of Fabric 1 and 2
6 years agosewingbunny @sewingbunny
Do I have to get the same type of fabric for Fabric 1 and Fabric 2?
I saw a seersucker fabric which I would like to use as the main fabric (Fabric 1) but not too sure about Fabric 2.
Obviously denim would not work well with linen given the different weight of the fabrics (in my opinion), but would seersucker and quilting cotton work together?
Am very excited to start my 3rd project!6 years agoNicole @motherof5
Don’t over interface the tab and you should be fine!
I mix fabrics all the time,as long as there is not a huge difference in weight.
Have fun6 years agoJohannaO @JohannaO
I think it would look really great in seersucker and quilting cotton- I would probably use the quilting cotton for the ties and tab, and then the seersucker for the main fabric, as you’ve proposed. Seersucker can stretch quite a bit on the bias, so I would stay-stitch the neckline just to keep it from shifting. (I can’t remember if that’s in the directions or not- I’ve only made it in a woven once, and it very well may be in the directions.)6 years agobeachmom @beachmom
Mix away! I’ve done a quilting weight print for the main, uncut corduroy for the tab, and a twill for the ties. I don’t think denim (if it’s a heavier weight) would work well for the ties but you could still use it for the tab. Johanna’s advice about the seersucker is spot on. I did 2 2+2 with bubble gauze which was fine except for the ties…they got all stretched out and looked pretty ragged. Good luck! Can’t wait to see what you come up with.:)6 years agoSarvi @Sarvi
Ah, very good to know about bias & different fabrics like gauze & seersucker! Ladies, you’re a wealth of info.6 years agoTamara @justsewit
I would use chambray for a denim look but not a heavier weight denim. You could even get some denim coloured cotton if you want it to look like you’ve used denim.
Quilting cotton is fantastic to use for mains, trims anything really. It has become a fixture in my sewing projects. It is just cotton but the prints are fantastic and can and should be used on things other than just quilts. It seems to be a better quality of cotton than some so called fashion fabrics also so that would be a top choice for projects in my view.
Sewingbunny I’m so proud of you for embracing your “inner seamstress”. I’m so glad you are taking this all in your stride and having lots of fun. Can’t wait to see what this 3rd project will look like. Good on you!6 years agosewingbunny @sewingbunny
Thank you all for your reply!
Johanna, I have yet to read the instructions in detail. Now that you mentioned that seersucker stretches on the bias, am not too sure that I could handle the fabric. What is ‘stay-stitch’?
I purchased the fabric yesterday, but am having difficulty straightening the ends (i.e making sure the ends are all parallel and/or perpendicular to the lengthwise and crosswise grain). I read somewhere before that there are two methods for this:
1) tearing for firmly woven fabrics, and
2) drawing a thread for soft, stretchy or loose weaves fabric.
I have tried both methods on different types of fabric, but didn’t get the results that I want. Do I have to prep the fabric such way prior to placing the pattern pieces? Does it matter? I could always place the grainline arrow of the pattern parallel to the selvages (which I always assume is 100% straight), but sometimes it is handy to place the grainline arrow of the pattern perpendicular to the selvages to save on fabric.
Does the above make sense?
Can anyone suggest a link or a tutorial to help?6 years agoViolaisabelle @Violaisabelle
In this thread https://oliverands.com/forums/topic.php?id=777#post-6174 we discussed swapping the grain in fabric as well as in my last posting in the thread, I give a link to Taunton and a PDF that explains how to square the grain of fabric.
Carol6 years agoJohannaO @JohannaO
The definition for stay stitching should be in the glossary in the front of the pattern directions, but basically it’s putting a line of stitching down that will be hidden inside the seam line once the bias fabric is applied to the neckline. So if you’re using bias fabric that will end up being 3/8″ wide when it’s done, you should stitch 1/4″ away from the cut edge. Easy Peasy. It helps the neckline keep it’s shape, and you don’t have to worry about it shifting or stretching out on you.
As for truing up the fabric… I’m a bit lazy on this one. Seersucker normally has stripes that are woven into it. I line up the grain line on one of the stripes, and go from there.
As for making it perpendicular to the grain line to save on fabric, sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn’t. I made a Tea Party Sunsuit with seersucker, and wanted the stripes to go different ways on the top and bottom. Things were a little more “shreddy” than I liked when I made the fabric turn perpendicular to the grain line for the top, but it worked anyway. http://flic.kr/p/8vGnRL All of the shreds were still within the seam allowances, so I didn’t let it bug me. Just know that the fabric “stretches” differently based on which way it is positioned to the grain line. When you put the fabric perpendicular to the grain line, it won’t stretch as much to the right or left side, which may be a big consideration if you’re making something with a lot of curves. (I’m thinking about the yoke on the Playdate dress because that really needs to stretch a little to make things work.) If you’re thinking about doing this for the main fabric for the 2+2, it probably won’t be a problem.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Unless otherwise credited, all work on this blog is © Liesl + Co., Inc, 2008-2017. You are welcome to link to this blog, but please ask permission before using any text or images.