Oliver + S

Sway back and dart adjustments to bodice

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
  • LINK
    Profile photo of GingerkatiesparklesGingerkatiesparkles @Gingerkatiesparkles

    Hi, I’ve been fitting a muslin bodice for my daughter and I think I’ve got it now – she has a bit of a buddha belly so I’ve lengthened the middle on the front and left out the front darts. The interesting bit is the back, where there seemed to be lots of extra material lower down (but it was snug at the chest). I followed some links to discover the sway back adjustment which seems to be the thing. So, it fits when I do both the pattern vertical darts, and a horizontal sway back dart. The question is, is doing both of these OK? And does it matter which one I sew first (I did vertical and then horizontal on my muslin).

    LINK
    Profile photo of with love Heidiwith love Heidi @with love Heidi

    Have you thought about closing the sway back darts out? This will slightly change the look of the pattern piece but will eliminate the back dart as a dart but keep the changes keep the side seams the same.

    I can’t find a good picture to illiterate it at the moment.

    LINK
    Profile photo of melelizameleliza @meleliza

    So the sway back isn’t a dart, it’s an adjustment you make to the pattern itself *before* you cut the fabric. And yes, you should keep the back darts. Lots of little girls have this. It seems to go with the Buddha belly.

    LINK
    Profile photo of NicoleNicole @motherof5

    I was hoping you would pop in Melanie, you are invaluable for fitting advice.

    LINK
    Profile photo of mcholley1mcholley1 @mcholley1

    I’m not sure what age child you are sewing for. When I made this dress for my 6year old (she has a sway back but not the belly to go with it) rather than fiddle with adjustments I just raised the bodice length by about 1 1/2″ to hit her above the problem area in her lower back.

    And, yes…I have to do a sway back adjustment on my own garments. You fold the adjustment out BEFORE cutting.

    LINK
    Profile photo of melelizameleliza @meleliza

    Oh yes, empire waists are a good way to avoid sway back on girls. This little girl has a sway back, but with music box, it didn’t really effect the fit: http://queenoftheflies.blogspot.com/2013/07/i-wish-i-may.html

    Thanks, Nicole! So kind of you to say. (Btw, I emailed you yesterday and it got bounced back because your account was full.)

    LINK
    Profile photo of GingerkatiesparklesGingerkatiesparkles @Gingerkatiesparkles

    Thanks! I followed the link from here, but it seems to be broken/expired now.

    IMG_2444

    So, if I take the muslin where I’ve sewn out the horizontal wedge and trace round it, would that work? The centre back seam then kind of has a kink in it, is that ok or is there a way to do it while keeping the back seam straight?

    LINK
    Profile photo of GingerkatiesparklesGingerkatiesparkles @Gingerkatiesparkles

    My daughter is just turning 7, but the size 8 is the right fit for her chest-wise.

    LINK
    Profile photo of Cat75Cat75 @Cat75

    Ginger, that is my little girl you linked to. I found another picture of what I did and added it to flikr (it is not very neat.)

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/9705332@N07/14188009281/

    Does this help. I have more pictures if you need them.

    LINK
    Profile photo of cybele727cybele727 @cybele727

    I have a bit of a sway back as does my daughter (with her buddha belly). I am working on my posture. Her therapist is working on her posture b/c it is a result of a weak core. But that being said, I still want to know how to do the adjustment.

    And Mel, I followed the links and you mentioned adding a wedge and in the comments put a link of a sketch. But it isn’t working. Can you find a working link? I am so visual when it comes to pattern mods.

    LINK
    Profile photo of GingerkatiesparklesGingerkatiesparkles @Gingerkatiesparkles

    Cat, thanks, that’s pretty much what I did on the muslin but my centre seam wasn’t so neat 🙂 so how did that transfer to the pattern piece?

    LINK
    Profile photo of GingerkatiesparklesGingerkatiesparkles @Gingerkatiesparkles

    This is the fit before I did the sway back adjustment. I’m sure I took an after pic but I can’t find it now!

    image

    LINK
    Profile photo of Cat75Cat75 @Cat75

    I took a picture of the pattern piece I used. (If I shouldn’t do this please let me know I will delete it.)

    back bodice sway back adjustment

    It’s been a couple of months. I think I measured the piece I took out of the muslin and then cut a wedge in the pattern then taped it together. I don’t know if this is how you are supposed to do it or not, but that’s what I did. Here’s a final picture. I think I may have taken too much out or something because it seemed to pull a bit still around the waist.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/9705332@N07/14191602692/

    LINK
    Profile photo of melelizameleliza @meleliza

    Sorry, ginger, I was cleaning up my flicker stream and deleted extraneous stuff. But the pattern piece cat linked to looks right. Technically, you should measure how much of a wedge you pinched out for the sway back and transfer that to your pattern. However, you can also use a muslin as a pattern. Press it nicely flat first.

    LINK
    Profile photo of with love Heidiwith love Heidi @with love Heidi

    Thanks for putting up that first picture, it’s what I was meaning when I meant fold out the dart but I couldn’t find a decent picture. The centre back will no longer be straight as it is conforming to a concave lower back.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

copyright

Unless otherwise credited, all work on this blog is © Liesl + Co., Inc, 2008-2016. You are welcome to link to this blog, but please ask permission before using any text or images.