Oliver + S

Increasing dress size more than 2 sizes

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    SewSoSlow @SewSoSlow

    I absolutely love the new Cinema dress pattern – I’m just a heftier gal than that pattern goes to. I’ve never purchased a digital pattern before. My concern is just how hard will it be to size that pattern from a 20 to a 26/28 and a DD cup size? Is this too much of a jump for the pattern to accommodate? I’ve never sized up that many sizes before – maybe 2 sizes and cup size at the most.

    Tamara @justsewit

    In my book you can do just about anything with a a pattern. I am bigger than the 20 also (but that is because I have a bump). The best thing to do is to measure you and compare your measurements to that of the pattern. I would also measure your upper bust measurement as eventhough I fit a “d” cup, I know on the Lisette patterns I can work with a size much smaller than I would think I would need.

    Your upoer bust measurement should tell you where you would stand with the sizes and you might just need to use the 18 or the 20 and go from there.

    I also find that my front is different to my back. So I measure them separately. There is a fab craftsy class by Joi Mahon that I recommend and her book comes out this week too (just google her name on Amazon). I highly recommend the classes and book because it will help you to adjust the pattern according to your body shape – it covers all areas and ways to shorten and lengthen.

    I am long in some areas but recently found out through the classes that I didn’t need to add length to my back and I didn’t need to lengthen between my bust point and waist to lengthen the waist but I did have to to add more room for my bust curve! And that all my lengthening is required more between the waist and hips and hips to knees.

    She shows you how to add room if you happen to be wider too and this measurement that was totally alien to me was the measurement between the two bust points! It is very clever and once you get the hang of it, very simple and you won’t be disappointed by your results.

    I would recommend giving them a go to help you along because as Joi explained to me, if she can make an adult pattern fit her eleven year old daughter by shrinking it down, you can absolutely make it to fit a body not in that largest range of measurements specified on the pattern – it is just a guide anyway. She was talking about the big four when she said that but it applies to all patterns.

    I hope I haven’t been to babbly about this and that I have actually answered your question. It can seem daunting when you are unsure but I assure you that it can certainly be done.


    cybele727 @cybele727

    I loved your response. Since taking a fitting class, I try on ready to wear and am even more dissatisfied, but haven’t made the jump to making my own. The wardrobe is getting pretty thin in places. I am going to look into that craftsy class. So you’ve helped me!

    Violaisabelle @Violaisabelle

    Just jumping in for a moment to say, Joi’s method really is great! I have taken both her Craftsy classes, and took three of her classes nearly two weeks ago, in Novi, MI. I’ve been looking through her book for the past two weeks and it has lots of great information in there.

    If you can request your library to carry the book, you could always check it out before purchasing it. I do find I have had to go over her classes, several times, to cement the process. It is logical and makes sense, but you have to be willing to step outside the ‘traditional’ boxes of fitting, to give it an honest try. It’s really simple, and once you do it several times, things get quicker. 🙂

    Treat yourself to learning to sew for yourself. 🙂 It really is a wonderful feeling to create well fitting garments for yourself.

    Happy Sewing! 🙂

    SewSoSlow @SewSoSlow

    I have changed patterns for decades. Our family is a very busty family, and wider front chest and really quite narrow through the shoulder blades. We have those of us with very long torsos or very long legs, and short crotches. I’ve redesigned patterns to fit these issues and combined 3 patterns to make a wedding dress for my niece (who became pregnant about 2 months prior to the wedding and didn’t realize she was until after) I was constantly having to re-do the bust for that gal. Good thing I love her so much! lol I just wasn’t sure how this would work with “digital patterns” as I’ve never dealt with them before.

    From what it sounds like, they are treated just as any other pre-printed pattern from the box stores. So when the pattern is printed, all the sizes are printed also? Do they allow for overlap for taping the 8 1/2 X 11 sheets together?

    OH A TIP!!! – I use clear lightweight plastic (found in the paint department) for making the new pattern on. You can see the original, Sharpie Fine Tips work well, and you can use different colors. I usually use red for the largest size of the original pattern (red means stop) then I use black for the final cutting lines.

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