Oliver + S

Collar interfacing and button placket

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    Eliza-sew-little @Eliza-sew-little

    Hi
    Just checking the collar view A requires interfacing for BOTH collar stand pieces ( pattern pieces indicate so but p3 step 5 doesn’t show any interfacing? )

    View A Both sides are identical? And button placket needs to be edgestitched on innermost fold – p2 step 2 but later pictures ( and other shirts) have edgestitching on either side of RH placket.

    Please could you clarify. Thx. I’m doing it for our pattern review at Guthrie Ghani so want to follow instructions exactly.
    Thank you

    LINK
    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Hi there.

    Answering on the fly here. Yes, it looks like the interfacing is missing from that illustration, sorry. We’ll issue an errata for that.

    I’m not quite sure what you mean by your second question. Do you mean both center-front pieces for View A? If so, yes. And yes, edgestitch the innermost fold. Most of the illustrations show View B, in which the separate placket is topstitched on both sides. (I hope I’m understanding your questions correctly.)

    Cheers!

    LINK
    Eliza-sew-little @Eliza-sew-little

    Thanks for reply.
    Ok I’ll interface both collar pieces. That makes sense as it needs a bit more structure for the ruffle.

    The front pieces. I assume I edgestitch innerfold of LHS and either side of RHS placket? That’s what it looks like on rtw shirts. And that’s what it looks like on the diagram p2 Attach Shirt Front step 1.
    Also I was going to sew yokes using burrito method but I’m a newbie to shirt making. Is there any reason why this wouldn’t work?
    Thanks for help

    LINK
    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Yes, do interface both pieces. You’ll want the extra structure.

    What you’re seeing in that illustration is the stitching on either side of the set-in placket. Typically a set-in placket is topstitched on either side. If you’re choosing the continuous (cut-on) placket, it is traditionally topstitched only on the innermost fold. You can do it however you want, but that’s how it’s usually done.

    And yes, you can absolutely use the burrito method. I prefer not to use it for shirts because the yoke tends to bubble a bit if it’s not sewn perfectly–the yoke facing needs to be slightly shorter to account for the curve of the shoulder, and it’s difficult if not impossible to account for this perfectly when you’re sewing the burrito method. But please feel free to sew it how you prefer–that’s the beauty of sewing–there isn’t necessarily a right or wrong way.

    Cheers.

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