[purlknitpurl]

I am wondering if anyone has any thoughts on the following questions?

1. What presser foot and/or stitches do you use to finish your seams? Do you always use zig zag? Would you use an overlocking foot even with cotton fabrics?

2. Any bernina users out there suggest I get the special zig zag foot, or should I be able to do this with my no. 1 reverse pattern sole?

Thanks so much for your help in advance. I obviously woke up with finishing seam allowances on the brain!

Thanks! Purl

[needlewoman]

Hi Purl, me again. I have a Janome – Bernina’s bounce too much for me. So can only say what I do but many machines have similar stitches/feet. As I said, I use triple zz for finishing raw seams, and do it pretty close to straight stitched seam. I’ve become addicted to using my see thru embroidery foot. As it’s designed for applique etc, the hole for the needle is wide enuf for zigzag, and it enables me to line up zz closely to straight stich. I’m now also using it for straight sewing too; especially around curves because I can see where I’m going. For seams that long and straight, i use a mock French seam. Pin pieces WRONG SIDES TOGETHER; sew with 3/8 seam or a little less when seam allowance is only 1/2 ”. Press, and trim seam to 1/8″- I use my quilting ruler and rotary cutter for this bit as gives nice finish. Then open out seam and press open with iron. Not as hard as you might think. Then pin pieces RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, and sew with 1/4″ seam. I use my 1/4″ foot for this as it’s always accurate, and save time and mistakes accidentally sewing seam wider than I want. Then press seam to one side on garment’s wrong side first, and then press on right side. Voila! Won’t unravel or fray in wash or anywhere else. Good luck!

[pippi]

I just have a cheap singer and don’t know much about bernina, but I just realized how well an overcast foot (something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Distinctive-Overlock-Overcast-Machine-Presser/dp/B003263PSS/ref=pd_vtp_hg_1) works for finishing seams with a zig zag, especially lightweight fabric. I just tested it out on some facings for a sailboat skirt and with a regular zig zag foot the edges sort of curled and bunched under the thread, but with the overcast foot it stayed much neater and flat. For a heavier fabric like corduroy or twill a regular foot would probably work just fine though. I usually run my zig zag about medium width and as close to (and so that it falls just over) the raw edge of the fabric so that it completely encases the loose threads (to kind of mimic the look of a serged edge), but I have seen other tutorials where the zig zag is much closer to the straight stitch seam so I am not sure what the standard method is or if there is any functional difference. I would be curious to hear other responses to this.

Also, my machine has a variety of other “finishing stitches” which are similar to zig zag but that look just a little neater finishing. Might be worth checking your manual for some suggestions too?

[meleliza]

As far as I know, that is a “real” French seam. I use my 1/4″ foot too, but sometimes I do that first and then the 3/8 pass so I don’t have to trim.

[sayiamyou]

I have a Bernina Activa and use the #8 or #3 stitches, depending on the fabric. Both are overlock stitches on my machine and make the seam look very tidy. I don’t have a zig zag foot. I think the sole I use is the #2. (The machine will tell you what to use.) I use these all the time as I don’t own a serger. Hope this is helpful.

[purlknitpurl]

Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions. I think I might invest in another presser foot!

[needlewoman]

Hi Pippi,

after reading your input, I went to the link, and then to my machine tool box, and I have an overcast foot too. What do you know? You can stuck in a rut doing things the same way, and forget to investigate new things. Am definitely going to try out overedge/overcast foot for finishing next facing (like one inside Book Report front which I zzaged, and then folded over and straight stitched v. close to edge. My overcast foot doesn’t look like the one on your link, but machine manual says it is. Never too old to learn new tricks! Glad my long replies abt seam finishing has helped, pkp.