Oliver + S

Attaching the sleeves

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    Hazelnuts @Hazelnuts

    Hi, I’ve just finished my first Sunday Brunch Jacket and it all went smoothly except when I came to put on the sleeves. I was puzzled by the small diagonal between the curved shoulder line and the side seam edge (like the point where they meet has been chopped off) – it didn’t seem to correspond size-wise to anything and it was really hard to get a smooth line under the arm when I sewed up the front and back because there was a big notch in the seam allowance. That chopped-off corner isn’t shown or mentioned in the instructions. In the end the generous seam allowance meant it didn’t matter much; but I’d like to make the jacket again sometime and it’d be good to know what I should do next time to get it to go together properly – did I miss something in the instructions along the way?

    April Henry @April1930s

    I think I remember being a bit puzzled by the alignment of the angled corner, too. In the end, I figured it was angled off to help reduce bulk. Basically, you align the edges not the corners, ignoring the angled part. Unless I’m misunderstanding your question, I don’t recall notching the seam allowance at the sleeve/side seam until after both the sleeve was attached as well as the side seam (sewing the underarm/side seam all in one step).

    Liesl Gibson

    April is correct about this–the corner is trimmed off to reduce a little bulk and to help with locating the corner. If you draw a line 1/2″ from each edge (those would be the equivalent of your stitching lines), you should find that the result is a nice corner. Sorry for the confusion!

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