Oliver + S

Assembling the yoke – stitching the un-stitched underarm, step 8

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    Profile photo of rrichrrich @rrich

    I cannot figure out what Step 8 in ‘Assemble the Yoke’ is asking me to do, in particular the bit about ‘fold the seam allowance at the armhole seams…’ Uh? Do I then sew my seam over this folded part? I have searched high and low on this forum and the net for some guidance. If someone could help me out, I would really appreciate it. (I am confused and wondering am I the only person out there who doesn’t understand this step? I am a beginner who I thought was starting to improve, but maybe not!)

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    Profile photo of SarviSarvi @Sarvi

    Gosh, I haven’t made one of these in ages. I’ll take a peek, though I warn you in advance that it’s nearly 2am where I am so my reply may be less than helpful!

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    Profile photo of SarviSarvi @Sarvi

    Ok, this is one of those things that’s easy to sew and hard to describe with words. If it still hasn’t clicked by tomorrow, post again and I’ll try to knock up a photo or video clip.

    If you take a peek at the illustration below that step, you’ll see there’s an arrow. It’s pointing up, toward the facing side (the side with the little lines, like sprinkles, used in the illustration to denote ‘facing’). See how there’s a stitching line (dashed line) that’s parallel to it? That’s where you’ll be stitching. And see the shorter stitching line perpendicular to it, in the middle of line you’re about to stitch? That’s the already-stitched together seam from step 4. And the straight (not dashed) line above that is the raw edge of the cut fabric, which is folded up, in the direction of the arrow, toward the facing side. When you stitch it this way, it will help ‘pull’ the whole works a tiny bit toward the inside of the dress, so the facing doesn’t show from the outside.

    I HOPE that I both understood your question and answered it correctly but as noted, I haven’t made this dress in a long time and it is the middle of the night for me, so profuse apologies in advance if I’ve got it wrong!

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    Profile photo of rrichrrich @rrich

    I just had another look at the pattern – after the kids have gone to bed – and it clicked! Then I thought ‘I’d better post that I’ve figured it out. By the time I got here, I see I have a response!

    Thanks Sarvi. I think you did understand my problem, very impressive at 2 am in the morning. The instructions are referring to a seam allowance from a seam I have already sewn and must sew over. And it’s telling me to fold that seam allowance towards the facing.

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    Profile photo of rrichrrich @rrich

    Was just about to stitch and now I’m wondering – the turned up edge at then bottom of the facing that we created in step 3, do we keep that folded up when we stitch the underarm seam?

    I am going with ‘yes’ and will cross my fingers I have it right…

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    Profile photo of SarviSarvi @Sarvi

    That happens so often — sometimes you just need to distract your brain with another task. I’m guessing by the time stamps that you’ve already sewn the next bit, how did it turn out?

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    Profile photo of needlewomanneedlewoman @needlewoman

    How is it going rrich? I have a few tips you might find useful for constructing the Music box but don’t want to confuse you if you’ve already gone ahead. I’ve made this up pattern about 1/2 dozen times – one of very best pinny patterns I’ve come across mostly because of the way the yoke is shaped. If you have any further queries, let us know. The pattern is worth working at, and finding your best way of constructing it, so don’t give up if the first effort is not as brilliant as you hoped. Practice makes perfect with this one.

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    Profile photo of rrichrrich @rrich

    It’s a little bulky under the arms and the fit is a tad firm. You see, I added corded piping along the neck line and arm holes even through I have never made this dress before and never added corded piping to anything – other than square cushions. Despite lots of time looking, I never found a tutorial to show me how to find off the piping around the arm holds…

    But it’s done (except for a hem, buttons and button holes). I plan on making it again, this time without the piping. Then I will try it again with piping!

    I was thinking of lowering the bodice, so it sat more at the high hip. Maybe adding a sash to the waist…

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    Profile photo of with love Heidiwith love Heidi @with love Heidi

    Have you seen this tutorial for adding piping to a sleeve?

    http://www.stitched-together.com/2014/04/how-to-sew-piping-or-trim-onto-sleeve.html

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    Profile photo of SarviSarvi @Sarvi

    Yay, glad it all came together for you! It’s one of my favorite patterns, I also often lengthen the bodice for a bit different look.

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