Oliver + S

Adding a Center Gore for the Inverted Pleat – HELP!

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    April Henry @April1930s

    I’m curious if anyone else has tried this for the Music Box Dress? I did it and it turned out “okay”, but my measurements were not quite what I thought they should have been. I mean, I think I had the measurement correct the first time, then when I sewed the inverted pleat/gore back onto the front panels, it didn’t seem to be the same width across the entire front piece, so I unpicked and trimmed a bit off the pleat piece. However, I think I trimmed too much. Thus, when I sewed them back together for the 2nd time I just used a narrower seam allowance, and all seemed fine. That is until I was pinning the yoke to the skirt and the yoke was a tad wider in the center section which caused me to do quite a bit of easing (to my dismay). Now I’m wondering if I had it right to begin with?!?!!!

    Liesl or anyone else, what measurement would you use to cut a center box pleat/gore piece (how wide of a strip) and what seam allowance would you use to attach it to the front panels (which have also been cut/trimmed down and are no longer one piece on a fold).

    Hope this is as clear as mud.

    icicle @icicle

    Pretty muddy to me 🙂

    Are you attempting to eliminate the center pleat and replace it with a gore? Or perhaps using the gore with pleat as an accent (i.e. color change)? A photo of what you’ve got so far would be really helpful, I think.

    JohannaO @JohannaO

    I don’t have this pattern yet, so I can’t give you exact measurements, but would it be possible to cut your traced pattern along the seam line, (where it would fold in) (to make the box pleat/gore) and then re-trace that piece and then add in whatever seam allowance you like to use? Then re-trace the “cut” part with a seam allowance? Am I muddying the water?

    I’m thinking of a technique like this-


    Anonymous @

    That is a great blog post!

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