Oliver + S

when to bias-trim the seam allowances

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    june @june

    I would like to trim all (or where as possible) the jacket seam allowances with bias strips, and it is a little bit difficult for me to figure out when to do so, especially the yoke seams and the armhole/side seams.

    Do I trim the yoke seams just after I sew the yoke and the front/back panel together, before I put the edgestitching from the right side?

    Do I trim the armhole before sewing the side seams together? Or do I trim side seams together, then the armholes? In either cases, what should I do with the clipping (instruction page 3, SEW THE SIDE SEAMS section, #3)? Do I clip then trim? Or…If I want to trim armholes/side seams, is it better to sew the side seams and sleeve seams separately then put them together (ie sew the armhole)?

    Sorry for a long question, but I cannot make my mind, so I wish if someone out there can help me.

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    April Henry @April1930s

    I trimmed the yoke with the facing piece all in one swoop. I think I trimmed the upper back piece/lower back piece prior to the sleeves being sewn in. (I’m examining the jacket that I made nearly a year ago, and this is what I can tell from my seams.) I trimmed the inner sleeve seams after they were stitched, stopping just shy of the seam allowance junction where the side seams meet.

    I do remember that I had to go very, very slow for all of it. I also liked Liesl’s suggestion for how she stitches the bias (basically making two passes with each bias trim), ESPECIALLY for the bulkier seams.

    Oliver + S Sunday Brunch Jacket & Skirt (Inside of Jacket)

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    june @june

    April,

    Thank you very much for your comment and your lovely photo.

    I really liked the combination of the fabrics (jacket, skirt, and the trimming)!

    It is true that trimming takes a long time but the finished garment should be fabulous with the trimmed seams.

    This time I stitched and trimmed armholes, then stitched and trimmed side and sleeve seams in one go. It seems underarm became a little bulky because of the layers of bias strips. Next time, maybe I stitch sides and sleeves separately, then put them together.

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    April Henry @April1930s

    Hi, June – I clipped either side of the sleeve/side junction so that there wouldn’t be the bulk. I clipped after I bias trimmed.

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